(There are no photos for this review. I refuse to promote this restaurant in any way.
Bee of Rasa Malaysia has written about more congenial experiences at Belacan. To be fair to the restaurant, I include her articles here and here. Food Marathon also had a good experience, which she writes about here.
I invite the owner to weigh in on this article and defend his behavior. I will post his response complete and uncensored.)
Running a restaurant is hard. Dwindling profit margins from rising food prices, high staff turnover, increased local and state licensing fees, and increased insurance fees all serve to squeeze independent restaurateurs. A decrease in clientele as a result of the current economy has only made an unforgiving job that much more difficult.
However, when a restaurant is suffering, the last thing it should do is pass that hardship on to its customers. Customers are the lifeblood of any eatery. Discourage them from frequenting your establishment at your own peril.
Belacan Grill in Redondo Beach is arguably the best Malaysian restaurant in LA or Orange County. That's not saying much, given the dearth of Malaysian restaurants in the LA/OC area. With Tropika in Tustin as its main competitor, Belacan is essentially the only game in town for South Bay residents. That virtual monopoly has bred a disturbing arrogance in both the owner and members of his wait staff.
The food quality ranges from decent to good, and the flavors are authentic. Belacan has garnered rave reviews, and no small amount of criticism, on Yelp, and is enjoyed by several of my foodie friends, including Bee of Rasa Malaysia. Bee is my guide for all things Malaysian. I value her taste and judgment, and her favorable evaluation of Belacan's food is spot on.
Where Belacan fails to make the grade is in service and price point. Let's cover price point first. Their lunch portions are tiny, barely enough to feed most people. A lunch order of Beef Rendang ($7.95) gets you about a cup and a half of rice, and a cup of curried beef. Not exactly a hearty meal. The dinner portion of the same dish ($13.95), clocks in at just over two cups, and barely feeds one. In fact, when dining with large groups on several occasions, we found ourselves ordering double portions of dinner items in order to have enough food.
Now the service, if you can call it that, is where Belacan really drops the ball. Their wait staff ranges from brusque to downright rude. I'm used to what's jokingly referred to as "San Gabriel Service", but what Belacan offers fails to meet even that low standard. In one notable and recent instance, they kept my friends, a pair of tiny Asian girls, waiting for two and a half hours for two orders of Hainan Chicken. We kept asking our waitress about their orders. She gave us attitude and told us, "It's coming, it's coming," but never went to check. Two and a half hours later, when everyone else was done with their food and we were ready to leave, she finally informed us that the kitchen had "forgotten" to make the Hainan Chicken, but that we could have it packed to go if we wanted. When asked if the restaurant would take if off of the bill, given the long wait and the fact that the two girls had been reduced to soliciting food from other people's plates, the waitress said she'd have to ask the male owner.
The owner's response? Aggressive, rude, and defensive. "Do you know how hard it is to run a restaurant?" he asked angrily. "Why don’t you pay for an apartment for me?" We pointed out that we'd just bought $400 worth of food, and that given the way we were being treated, it was likely he'd lose any repeat business. His reply was “I don’t care. I don’t want you guys to come back.” After more arguing, during which he kept demanding that we buy him an apartment, he finally agreed to take their food off the bill. However, he glared at our group the entire time, particularly at the two tiny Asian girls who still hadn't eaten lunch.
You know what? I've worked in a kitchen before and I do know how hard it is to run a restaurant. I also know that when you make a mistake, you should apologize and try to make it better for your customers. They also worked hard for the money they spent at your restaurant. You don't start shouting at them and giving two innocent girls the stink eye, especially when they were the victims of your staff's incompetence. Absolutely unacceptable.
Belacan Grill - Their craptacular service is un-freaking-believable. The male owner is an asshole. If you have a choice, do not eat at this restaurant. I sure as hell won't.
(Ratings the result of 5 visits. I wanted to give this restaurant an overall F rating, but the food is tasty and the ambience is pleasant. They've earned a C+ despite their rude service and poor ROI.)
Flavor: A-
Ambience: A
Service: F
ROI: D
Overall: C+
Belacan Grill
2701 190th St # 100
Redondo Beach, CA 90278
www.belacangrill.com
Showing posts with label Range (Mid). Show all posts
Showing posts with label Range (Mid). Show all posts
6/09/2008
5/11/2008
Soprano's - Costa Mesa, CA [Eating]
(Pictures for this review taken with my Canon PowerShot SD800is.
Apologies for the image quality of my later photos. Several members of our party got lost and arrived over an hour late. By time our food arrived, the light had completely faded. Out of respect for other diners, I don't use a flash, so I did the best I could with a nearby candle.
My little brother has submitted a t-shirt design to Threadless.com. If you can give him a hand and vote for him, I'd appreciate it. I wanna wear that tee!)
I love mom & pop restaurants. There's something about a family owned and operated eatery that expresses a warmth chain restaurants just can't convey. When the family in question takes pride in their establishment, it's a palpable emotion you can see in every place setting, feel in the air, and taste in your food.
Soprano's in Costa Mesa is an upscale Italian restaurant that somehow manages to combine the elegance and class of a fine dining establishment with the casual charm of a mom & pop operation. Tucked in the corner of a quiet residential neighborhood, it's incongruously placed next to a coin-operated laundromat. Once again, good food can be found in surprising locations.
The interior is a cozy affair, almost exclusively filled with locals in everyday attire. You don't see advertisements for it and it's not visible from any major thoroughfare. If you know about Soprano's, chances are you live nearby, you heard about it from someone who lives nearby, or both.
(Complimentary focaccia with an olive aioli spread.)
The obscurity is probably for the best. The food is so good, and Soprano's is so small, I don't want to make it any harder than it already is to get a table. This is one of my secret happy spots, and my favorite restaurant for Italian-American fare.
(BBlade, our own Chicago gangsta.)
In fact, the desperate pleas of an old iaido friend (second picture in the link, upper right) for a spot to host a last-minute reunion dinner was the only reason I shared Soprano's with him. I don't even tell friends about it. That's how much I love this place.
Can you blame me, with such luscious offerings as this Penne ala Vodka? Plump shrimp peep up through a springy forest of cylindrical noodles coated in a creamy vodka marinara. The pastas at Soprano's are always perfectly al dente and coated in robustly flavored, ethereal sauces.
Then there's the Lamb Shank, a ruggedly simple name for a simple and rugged dish. Two large, bone-in lamb shanks are braised in red wine and spices until the meat coyly slips apart at the brush of a fork. Each bite is coated with the gelatin-thickened gravy. Sides of sautéed fresh vegetables and fettuccini in marinara sauce are almost an afterthought, yet the vegetables are tender and the pasta is skillfully prepared. It's a wonderful dish when you're in a meat and potatoes mood.
However, the undisputed champion is Soprano's Cioppino, a massive tureen of fresh fish, shrimp, scallops, mussels, and other seafood frolicking in a savory sea of white wine, tomatoes, and herbs. Hiding just underneath the rippling surface, like the coiled tentacles of the mythic kraken, lies a generous mound of linguine cooked right in the flavorful stew. It's large enough for two people or one hungry panda.
(Balsamic vinegar and olive oil smiley face.)
So why am I choosing now to reveal to you the path to this palace of gastronomic delight? Because we're in a recession and our small businesses need all the help they can get. Now that I've made this supreme sacrifice, you're all honor-bound to eat at Soprano's. ... What, you're still here? Get moving!
Soprano's - A mom & pop Italian restaurant with the class of a high-end eatery and the soul of a neighborhood joint. I can't believe I told you guys about it!
Bill:
Penne ala Vodka - 1595
Lamb Shank - 17.95
Cioppino - 21.95
Flavor: A
Ambience: A
Service: A
ROI: A
Overall: A
Soprano's
2400 Newport Blvd.
Costa Mesa, CA 92627
1-949-645-8515
Apologies for the image quality of my later photos. Several members of our party got lost and arrived over an hour late. By time our food arrived, the light had completely faded. Out of respect for other diners, I don't use a flash, so I did the best I could with a nearby candle.
My little brother has submitted a t-shirt design to Threadless.com. If you can give him a hand and vote for him, I'd appreciate it. I wanna wear that tee!)
I love mom & pop restaurants. There's something about a family owned and operated eatery that expresses a warmth chain restaurants just can't convey. When the family in question takes pride in their establishment, it's a palpable emotion you can see in every place setting, feel in the air, and taste in your food.
Soprano's in Costa Mesa is an upscale Italian restaurant that somehow manages to combine the elegance and class of a fine dining establishment with the casual charm of a mom & pop operation. Tucked in the corner of a quiet residential neighborhood, it's incongruously placed next to a coin-operated laundromat. Once again, good food can be found in surprising locations.
The interior is a cozy affair, almost exclusively filled with locals in everyday attire. You don't see advertisements for it and it's not visible from any major thoroughfare. If you know about Soprano's, chances are you live nearby, you heard about it from someone who lives nearby, or both.
(Complimentary focaccia with an olive aioli spread.)
The obscurity is probably for the best. The food is so good, and Soprano's is so small, I don't want to make it any harder than it already is to get a table. This is one of my secret happy spots, and my favorite restaurant for Italian-American fare.
(BBlade, our own Chicago gangsta.)
In fact, the desperate pleas of an old iaido friend (second picture in the link, upper right) for a spot to host a last-minute reunion dinner was the only reason I shared Soprano's with him. I don't even tell friends about it. That's how much I love this place.
Can you blame me, with such luscious offerings as this Penne ala Vodka? Plump shrimp peep up through a springy forest of cylindrical noodles coated in a creamy vodka marinara. The pastas at Soprano's are always perfectly al dente and coated in robustly flavored, ethereal sauces.
Then there's the Lamb Shank, a ruggedly simple name for a simple and rugged dish. Two large, bone-in lamb shanks are braised in red wine and spices until the meat coyly slips apart at the brush of a fork. Each bite is coated with the gelatin-thickened gravy. Sides of sautéed fresh vegetables and fettuccini in marinara sauce are almost an afterthought, yet the vegetables are tender and the pasta is skillfully prepared. It's a wonderful dish when you're in a meat and potatoes mood.
However, the undisputed champion is Soprano's Cioppino, a massive tureen of fresh fish, shrimp, scallops, mussels, and other seafood frolicking in a savory sea of white wine, tomatoes, and herbs. Hiding just underneath the rippling surface, like the coiled tentacles of the mythic kraken, lies a generous mound of linguine cooked right in the flavorful stew. It's large enough for two people or one hungry panda.
(Balsamic vinegar and olive oil smiley face.)
So why am I choosing now to reveal to you the path to this palace of gastronomic delight? Because we're in a recession and our small businesses need all the help they can get. Now that I've made this supreme sacrifice, you're all honor-bound to eat at Soprano's. ... What, you're still here? Get moving!
Soprano's - A mom & pop Italian restaurant with the class of a high-end eatery and the soul of a neighborhood joint. I can't believe I told you guys about it!
Bill:
Penne ala Vodka - 1595
Lamb Shank - 17.95
Cioppino - 21.95
Flavor: A
Ambience: A
Service: A
ROI: A
Overall: A
Soprano's
2400 Newport Blvd.
Costa Mesa, CA 92627
1-949-645-8515
3/10/2008
The Olde Ship - Santa Ana, CA [Eating]
(Pictures for this review taken with my Canon PowerShot SD800is.
I'd like to thank my friend Jpathomas a.k.a. Stitch of Living in the Cloud for this great tip.)
(A Black & Tan with Guinness and Bass.)
The air is warm, thick porridge that oozes into my lungs with each gasping breath. In my head, a manic band of hobgoblins marches to God Save the Queen as a color guard of twirling pink elephants plays merry havoc with my optic nerves. My right temple pulses in time with the beat. My eyes water, the room swims. A voice cuts through the foggy haze swirling around my misfiring synapses and asks, "Would you like another pint, luv?" Too right I would.
(Christmas at the pub.)
The Olde Ship in Santa Ana is, as Cat says, aggressively British. Founded by ex-pats sick for a taste of home, and possibly sick of what we bloody colonials consider an acceptable pub, this temple to the gods of barley and hops delivers a much-needed weekly injection of alcohol to my hemoglobin infested veins. It also dishes up heaping servings of hearty English fare not for the faint of heart.
From oft-maligned fried-things-with-burnt-crunchy-bits to stick-to-your-ribs-for-a-week-stews, the offerings at the Olde Ship symbolize everything great and grand from the cook pots of our former imperial masters. Take the Cottage Pie, for example. Once an imaginative way to use up leftover meat and potatoes, this rich stew of ground beef and vegetables is tucked under a browned blanket of mashed potatoes and served as a bubbling, crusty plate of pure comfort.
Their Cornish Pasty takes it to the next level with tender chunks of beef baked in buttery pastry, then smothered with beef gravy. Craving mashed potatoes? Don't worry, they're on the plate and smothered in gravy as well.
The key to the Olde Ship's wonderfully heart-clogging meals seems to be a well-balanced blend of the three greatest food groups; fat, salt, and starch (often more than one), accompanied by an almost apologetic side of boiled peas and carrots. However, there's nothing bashful about anything they serve. Their roasts are particularly bold. Available for dinner during the weekends and holidays, their Roast Duck has a depth of flavor that belies the simplicity of its preparation. Once you bite into its moist meat and feel the crisp skin shatter under your teeth, you'll be hooked for life.
If you're unfortunate and the roast is already gone that evening, only Roast Beef with Yorkshire Pudding packs the meaty chutzpah needed to assuage your carnivorous frenzy. Be careful with the Yorkshire pudding. It's powerful juju. While it may look light and airy, it'll stay with you for the rest of the weekend. This is the stuff that gave Churchill the strength to hold back the Nazis.
However, if you're planning on hitting Disneyland afterwards, as Cat and I often do, and don't want to tip the boat for the Jungle Cruise, there are "lighter" options that will still provide a buffer against the warming goodness of beer. The Ploughman's Lunch, served with four different English cheeses, pickles, chutney, preserves, and all the bread you can eat, is a meal for two or hefty appetizer for four. One of their cheeses has pineapple chunks actually inside of it, hiding like tart little frontiersmen ready to scalp your Redcoat taste buds.
A side of Blood Sausage; dark, mysterious, and ruggedly sexy. The earthy combination of spiced blood and grains will get you through the hour wait for the Indian Jones ride.
There is no better drinking companion than the Scotch Egg, a hard boiled egg surrounded by a cricket ball-size lump of sausage, breaded, and deep fried. Served cold, sliced, and with pickles, it somehow makes sense. I salute the magnificent London bastard who invented it.
Cat pines for the flakey, moist sausage rolls served at Ren Faire, which are wholly different from the ghastly things they actually serve in the UK. The Sausage Rolls at the Olde Ship help assuage her cravings.
Mushy Peas are essential to keeping heartburn at bay when eating all those heavy, fried foods. Made with dry, not fresh peas, this soothing porridge gets its frighteningly vivid color from sodium bicarbonate (baking soda). The only way to eat it is with your eyes closed, otherwise you'll find yourself mesmerized.
Did you think I was done? Oh no no no. What about dessert, the most feared of British fare? The undisputed king at the Olde Ship is the Sticky Toffee Pudding, which, as the name states, is a steamed toffee bread pudding served with condensed milk. It's amazingly good.
The English Sherry Trifle is a familiar friend with a different look. Baked berries, cake moistened with sherry, and whipped cream, it's new yet not, and is related to some British favorites already popular in the States; cobblers and crumbles.
Spotted Dick, a boiled bread and current pudding with custard, is a misunderstood classic that perfectly encapsulates the prevailing American attitude towards British food. The dessert's unfortunate name has led to much lampooning in American media, most memorably in the 1990 John Goodman film King Ralph. The few Americans aware of Spotted Dick see it as dense, bland, and stodgy, indicative of a boring and retroactive culture we rebelled against, rejected, and outgrew. Yet, bread pudding with custard is a basic comfort food, delicious and simple, which Americans might enjoy if we'd only give it a chance.
The Olde Ship - As authentic a British pub as we bloody colonials are likely to find on this side of the pond. It's a little kitsch and just a wee bit trite, but good fun nonetheless. While most pubs in Britain aren't really like this, the Olde Ship is a spot of delicious fun in an otherwise dreary part of town.
Bill:
Cottage Pie - 13.95
Cornish Pasty - 13.95
The Roast - 23.95
Roast Beef with Yorkshire Pudding - 15.95
Ploughman's Lunch - 14.95
Blood Sausage - 4.95
Scotch Eggs - 6.95
Sausage Rolls - 6.95
Mushy Peas - 3.95
Spotted Dick - 7.95
English Sherry Trifle - 7.95
Sticky Toffee Pudding - 7.95
Flavor: B
Ambience: A
Service: B
ROI: B
Overall: B+
The Olde Ship
1120 W 17th St
Santa Ana, CA 92706
1-714-550-6700
Restaurant website
Other locations:
The Olde Ship
709 N Harbor Blvd
Fullerton, CA 92832
1-714-871-7447
I'd like to thank my friend Jpathomas a.k.a. Stitch of Living in the Cloud for this great tip.)
(A Black & Tan with Guinness and Bass.)
The air is warm, thick porridge that oozes into my lungs with each gasping breath. In my head, a manic band of hobgoblins marches to God Save the Queen as a color guard of twirling pink elephants plays merry havoc with my optic nerves. My right temple pulses in time with the beat. My eyes water, the room swims. A voice cuts through the foggy haze swirling around my misfiring synapses and asks, "Would you like another pint, luv?" Too right I would.
(Christmas at the pub.)
The Olde Ship in Santa Ana is, as Cat says, aggressively British. Founded by ex-pats sick for a taste of home, and possibly sick of what we bloody colonials consider an acceptable pub, this temple to the gods of barley and hops delivers a much-needed weekly injection of alcohol to my hemoglobin infested veins. It also dishes up heaping servings of hearty English fare not for the faint of heart.
From oft-maligned fried-things-with-burnt-crunchy-bits to stick-to-your-ribs-for-a-week-stews, the offerings at the Olde Ship symbolize everything great and grand from the cook pots of our former imperial masters. Take the Cottage Pie, for example. Once an imaginative way to use up leftover meat and potatoes, this rich stew of ground beef and vegetables is tucked under a browned blanket of mashed potatoes and served as a bubbling, crusty plate of pure comfort.
Their Cornish Pasty takes it to the next level with tender chunks of beef baked in buttery pastry, then smothered with beef gravy. Craving mashed potatoes? Don't worry, they're on the plate and smothered in gravy as well.
The key to the Olde Ship's wonderfully heart-clogging meals seems to be a well-balanced blend of the three greatest food groups; fat, salt, and starch (often more than one), accompanied by an almost apologetic side of boiled peas and carrots. However, there's nothing bashful about anything they serve. Their roasts are particularly bold. Available for dinner during the weekends and holidays, their Roast Duck has a depth of flavor that belies the simplicity of its preparation. Once you bite into its moist meat and feel the crisp skin shatter under your teeth, you'll be hooked for life.
If you're unfortunate and the roast is already gone that evening, only Roast Beef with Yorkshire Pudding packs the meaty chutzpah needed to assuage your carnivorous frenzy. Be careful with the Yorkshire pudding. It's powerful juju. While it may look light and airy, it'll stay with you for the rest of the weekend. This is the stuff that gave Churchill the strength to hold back the Nazis.
However, if you're planning on hitting Disneyland afterwards, as Cat and I often do, and don't want to tip the boat for the Jungle Cruise, there are "lighter" options that will still provide a buffer against the warming goodness of beer. The Ploughman's Lunch, served with four different English cheeses, pickles, chutney, preserves, and all the bread you can eat, is a meal for two or hefty appetizer for four. One of their cheeses has pineapple chunks actually inside of it, hiding like tart little frontiersmen ready to scalp your Redcoat taste buds.
A side of Blood Sausage; dark, mysterious, and ruggedly sexy. The earthy combination of spiced blood and grains will get you through the hour wait for the Indian Jones ride.
There is no better drinking companion than the Scotch Egg, a hard boiled egg surrounded by a cricket ball-size lump of sausage, breaded, and deep fried. Served cold, sliced, and with pickles, it somehow makes sense. I salute the magnificent London bastard who invented it.
Cat pines for the flakey, moist sausage rolls served at Ren Faire, which are wholly different from the ghastly things they actually serve in the UK. The Sausage Rolls at the Olde Ship help assuage her cravings.
Mushy Peas are essential to keeping heartburn at bay when eating all those heavy, fried foods. Made with dry, not fresh peas, this soothing porridge gets its frighteningly vivid color from sodium bicarbonate (baking soda). The only way to eat it is with your eyes closed, otherwise you'll find yourself mesmerized.
Did you think I was done? Oh no no no. What about dessert, the most feared of British fare? The undisputed king at the Olde Ship is the Sticky Toffee Pudding, which, as the name states, is a steamed toffee bread pudding served with condensed milk. It's amazingly good.
The English Sherry Trifle is a familiar friend with a different look. Baked berries, cake moistened with sherry, and whipped cream, it's new yet not, and is related to some British favorites already popular in the States; cobblers and crumbles.
Spotted Dick, a boiled bread and current pudding with custard, is a misunderstood classic that perfectly encapsulates the prevailing American attitude towards British food. The dessert's unfortunate name has led to much lampooning in American media, most memorably in the 1990 John Goodman film King Ralph. The few Americans aware of Spotted Dick see it as dense, bland, and stodgy, indicative of a boring and retroactive culture we rebelled against, rejected, and outgrew. Yet, bread pudding with custard is a basic comfort food, delicious and simple, which Americans might enjoy if we'd only give it a chance.
The Olde Ship - As authentic a British pub as we bloody colonials are likely to find on this side of the pond. It's a little kitsch and just a wee bit trite, but good fun nonetheless. While most pubs in Britain aren't really like this, the Olde Ship is a spot of delicious fun in an otherwise dreary part of town.
Bill:
Cottage Pie - 13.95
Cornish Pasty - 13.95
The Roast - 23.95
Roast Beef with Yorkshire Pudding - 15.95
Ploughman's Lunch - 14.95
Blood Sausage - 4.95
Scotch Eggs - 6.95
Sausage Rolls - 6.95
Mushy Peas - 3.95
Spotted Dick - 7.95
English Sherry Trifle - 7.95
Sticky Toffee Pudding - 7.95
Flavor: B
Ambience: A
Service: B
ROI: B
Overall: B+
The Olde Ship
1120 W 17th St
Santa Ana, CA 92706
1-714-550-6700
Restaurant website
Other locations:
The Olde Ship
709 N Harbor Blvd
Fullerton, CA 92832
1-714-871-7447
2/11/2008
Crystal Jade Asian Fine Dining - Irvine, CA [Eating]
(Pictures for this review taken with my Canon PowerShot SD800is.)
(Little Saigon after the Tet parade.)
Hey guys! Happy Lunar New Year, Chinese New Year, Tet, or whatever you like to call it! I'm sorry it's been two weeks since my last post. My work schedule is busier than ever, so most of what I post is written during the weekends. Sometimes I have time to write more than one, other times I miss a week entirely.
Since I get home from the office late most nights, I decided not to try putting together my usual Chinese New Year's feast. Instead, Cat and I had dinner at Crystal Jade in Irvine with a few friends. This is a fairly standard way of ushering in the new year if you can't make it home to your family. Don't worry. We honored my ancestors with incense and a nice altar loaded with goodies at home.
The latest addition to Irvine's already impressive stable of Chinese restaurants, Crystal Jade opened last year in the Quail Hill area at the corner of Sand Canyon and Quail Hill Parkway. It was a fairly daring move, given the recent closures of Chinatown, China West, and Cathay Newport. With its sleek decor, full bar, and somewhat Americanized offerings, it's clear that Crystal Jade is going after the same market; young career couples and families. They might have a shot. At the moment, they're pretty much the only game in South Irvine. Lucky for us, the food is pretty good.
Take their Fish Filet with Black Bean Sauce, which is one of Cat's favorites. The large pieces of moist catfish stir-fried in an earthy sauce made from fermented soybeans have her purring after every visit. The aromatics in this dish aren't filler. They're delicious! The crisp, sweet chunks of flash-fried bell peppers are to be relished as much as the fish. Mee-ow!
The Kung Pao Chicken, another Cat favorite, is also tasty. Toned down for American palates, Crystal Jade's version is sweeter and less spicy than the more authentic rendition offered by Hsin Hsin Shao May. However, the filler veggies are kept to a minimum, and the peanuts are plentiful. If I can't have Hsin Hsin Shao May's, this will do.
Maniacal Penguin is addicted to the Malaysian Chicken. I'm not sure how Malaysian it really is, but it reminds my of some of the great Cantonese curries I've had in the past, with generous slabs of chicken and hearty chunks of potato. My mother used to make something really similar for me when I was a child; a warm, filling, comforting dish.
Mr. Big always orders the Honey Walnut Shrimp, which is deep fried shrimp and caramelized walnuts tossed in a sauce made from honey and Chinese mayonnaise. It's really really good, but it's also very rich. I normally don't order this for myself, but when Mr. Big is in da house, I can pork away (relatively) guilt free.
If you're more of a traditionalist, like Elonweis, you might order the E-Fu Noodles Braised with Crab Meat. Shred of crab meat floating in an unctuous sauce envelope a fluffy pile of hand-made noodles and bean sprouts. It's a delicate dish with a gentle texture that slides easily down the throat.
Her brother, Alphanarf, enjoys bolder flavors. Crystal Jade's Pan-Fried Beef with XO Sauce is right up his alley. Invented in the 1980s by a Hong Kong chef, XO sauce is a luxury condiment made from high-quality cognac, fried aromatics, and dried seafood. Considered revolutionary when it was first introduced, it provides an intense, complex blast of flavor. Most good Chinese restaurants will make their own varieties of XO sauce, each specifically formulated for meat, poultry, seafood, or vegetables. All of Crystal Jade's XO sauce dishes are excellent, particularly when you take the price point into consideration.
Despite whatever impression my meat-bloated ramblings may have given you, I really like my veggies. The classic combination of chilies, garlic, and string beans in Crystal Jade's Dry Sautéed String Beans sits smack dab in the center of my comfort zone. You'd be surprised at the depth of flavor they can get out of these simple ingredients.
But you guys didn't come here to read about vegetables. You came here for sexy shots of glistening, meaty food porn. Well, here ya go. Pork Chop Peking Style, with deep fried pork chops encased in a sweet and sour caramel crust. It'll set the whole table to fighting.
Happy Chinese New Year everyone! In case you're wondering how we cut from Little Saigon on Sunday to Irvine on Wednesday and back again so quickly, it might be because Maniacal Penguin can burn rubber and drift like the guys from the Fast and Furious films. Or maybe I can bend time and space like Hiro Nakamura. YATTA! YATTA ZO!
Crystal Jade - Delicious Chinese food in a nice setting. A good place to share with family and friends.
Bill:
Fish Filet with Black Bean Sauce - 11.95
Kung Pao Chicken - 9.95
Malaysian Chicken - 12.95
Honey Walnut Shrimp - 16.25
E-Fu Noodles Braised with Crab Meat - 13.00
Pan-Fried Beef with XO Sauce - 14.95
Dry Sautéed String Beans - 8.95
Pork Chop Peking Style - 9.95
Flavor: B+
Ambience: A
Service: C+
ROI: A-
Overall: B+
Crystal Jade Asian Fine Dining
6511 Quail Hill Pkwy
Irvine, CA 92603
(949) 725-3368
(Little Saigon after the Tet parade.)
Hey guys! Happy Lunar New Year, Chinese New Year, Tet, or whatever you like to call it! I'm sorry it's been two weeks since my last post. My work schedule is busier than ever, so most of what I post is written during the weekends. Sometimes I have time to write more than one, other times I miss a week entirely.
Since I get home from the office late most nights, I decided not to try putting together my usual Chinese New Year's feast. Instead, Cat and I had dinner at Crystal Jade in Irvine with a few friends. This is a fairly standard way of ushering in the new year if you can't make it home to your family. Don't worry. We honored my ancestors with incense and a nice altar loaded with goodies at home.
The latest addition to Irvine's already impressive stable of Chinese restaurants, Crystal Jade opened last year in the Quail Hill area at the corner of Sand Canyon and Quail Hill Parkway. It was a fairly daring move, given the recent closures of Chinatown, China West, and Cathay Newport. With its sleek decor, full bar, and somewhat Americanized offerings, it's clear that Crystal Jade is going after the same market; young career couples and families. They might have a shot. At the moment, they're pretty much the only game in South Irvine. Lucky for us, the food is pretty good.
Take their Fish Filet with Black Bean Sauce, which is one of Cat's favorites. The large pieces of moist catfish stir-fried in an earthy sauce made from fermented soybeans have her purring after every visit. The aromatics in this dish aren't filler. They're delicious! The crisp, sweet chunks of flash-fried bell peppers are to be relished as much as the fish. Mee-ow!
The Kung Pao Chicken, another Cat favorite, is also tasty. Toned down for American palates, Crystal Jade's version is sweeter and less spicy than the more authentic rendition offered by Hsin Hsin Shao May. However, the filler veggies are kept to a minimum, and the peanuts are plentiful. If I can't have Hsin Hsin Shao May's, this will do.
Maniacal Penguin is addicted to the Malaysian Chicken. I'm not sure how Malaysian it really is, but it reminds my of some of the great Cantonese curries I've had in the past, with generous slabs of chicken and hearty chunks of potato. My mother used to make something really similar for me when I was a child; a warm, filling, comforting dish.
Mr. Big always orders the Honey Walnut Shrimp, which is deep fried shrimp and caramelized walnuts tossed in a sauce made from honey and Chinese mayonnaise. It's really really good, but it's also very rich. I normally don't order this for myself, but when Mr. Big is in da house, I can pork away (relatively) guilt free.
If you're more of a traditionalist, like Elonweis, you might order the E-Fu Noodles Braised with Crab Meat. Shred of crab meat floating in an unctuous sauce envelope a fluffy pile of hand-made noodles and bean sprouts. It's a delicate dish with a gentle texture that slides easily down the throat.
Her brother, Alphanarf, enjoys bolder flavors. Crystal Jade's Pan-Fried Beef with XO Sauce is right up his alley. Invented in the 1980s by a Hong Kong chef, XO sauce is a luxury condiment made from high-quality cognac, fried aromatics, and dried seafood. Considered revolutionary when it was first introduced, it provides an intense, complex blast of flavor. Most good Chinese restaurants will make their own varieties of XO sauce, each specifically formulated for meat, poultry, seafood, or vegetables. All of Crystal Jade's XO sauce dishes are excellent, particularly when you take the price point into consideration.
Despite whatever impression my meat-bloated ramblings may have given you, I really like my veggies. The classic combination of chilies, garlic, and string beans in Crystal Jade's Dry Sautéed String Beans sits smack dab in the center of my comfort zone. You'd be surprised at the depth of flavor they can get out of these simple ingredients.
But you guys didn't come here to read about vegetables. You came here for sexy shots of glistening, meaty food porn. Well, here ya go. Pork Chop Peking Style, with deep fried pork chops encased in a sweet and sour caramel crust. It'll set the whole table to fighting.
Happy Chinese New Year everyone! In case you're wondering how we cut from Little Saigon on Sunday to Irvine on Wednesday and back again so quickly, it might be because Maniacal Penguin can burn rubber and drift like the guys from the Fast and Furious films. Or maybe I can bend time and space like Hiro Nakamura. YATTA! YATTA ZO!
Crystal Jade - Delicious Chinese food in a nice setting. A good place to share with family and friends.
Bill:
Fish Filet with Black Bean Sauce - 11.95
Kung Pao Chicken - 9.95
Malaysian Chicken - 12.95
Honey Walnut Shrimp - 16.25
E-Fu Noodles Braised with Crab Meat - 13.00
Pan-Fried Beef with XO Sauce - 14.95
Dry Sautéed String Beans - 8.95
Pork Chop Peking Style - 9.95
Flavor: B+
Ambience: A
Service: C+
ROI: A-
Overall: B+
Crystal Jade Asian Fine Dining
6511 Quail Hill Pkwy
Irvine, CA 92603
(949) 725-3368
1/27/2008
Korea House BBQ - Irvine, CA [Eating]
(Pictures for this review taken with my Canon PowerShot SD100 and Canon PowerShot SD800is.)
While the storms that were supposed to lash Southern California left me disappointed, they still put me in the mood for my favorite winter treats; grilled meat and spicy soup. Most Americans consider BBQ a summer activity. Not me. Why make a hot summer day worse by spending it hunched over a big pile of glowing charcoal? Instead, when the air is cold and water is falling from the sky, cozying up to a toasty tabletop grill indoors makes all the sense in the world. Add a sizzling stone pot full of piping hot soup and you'll soon be ready to sneer at the worst winter has to offer.
Korea House BBQ is my chosen neighborhood spot to sling a few shrimp on the barbie. Sandwiched in an out-of-the-way shopping center between Turtle Rock and University Park, it offers everything I look for in a restaurant. It's close, the service is fast, the food is good, the portions are generous, and the prices are reasonable. Cat and I come here a lot when looking for immediate dining gratification after a long day.
Imagine this; you're tired and hungry. It's late. The usual chain of predictable disasters occurred at the office, leaving you fighting fires for most of the morning. Worse yet, the afternoon dragged. At times it looked like the clock was actually moving backwards. The commute was a nightmare. The commute is always a nightmare. In a few short hours, your ass needs to be in bed so you can wake up and do it all over again. There's no way you're stepping into the kitchen. You want a hot meal right away. What are your options? Steam-table? Pre-made pizza by the slice? Heart-cloggers All-You-Can-Eat Buffet? McGreaseBurger King? Say it ain't so!
The beauty of Korean BBQ is that it's the fastest, freshly-cooked meal you're likely to find, and Korea House BBQ restaurant does it right. Just a few minutes after you place your order, you can eat! They've already sliced, marinated, or aged the meat. It's good quality stuff too. You just slap it onto the handy gas grill set in your table, which is already doing double duty warming you up from the winter chill, give it a few minutes with a flip in the middle, and presto! Smokin' hot meat and rice are making their way into your waiting belly.
Since the plates of meat at Korea House BBQ are intended for family-style meals, the portions are large. A good rule of thumb is one plate for every two people, unless you're literally hungry enough to eat a cow. Cat swears by the Ross Gui, which is our usual choice. The thin slices of rib eye steak, deliciously marbled, cook up like crisp pieces of beefy bacon. They're insanely good, particularly when brushed with the sesame oil and salt dipping sauce provided.
Elonweis goes for the Hweo Mit Gui, thin slices of beef tongue marinated in a sweet garlic and soy sauce. Surprisingly tender, the tongue cooks up like the softest roast beef and isn't gamey or bloody. It's a very delicate flavor.
If I'm eating with a guy, they invariably want short ribs. But, rather than go with the standard Gal Bi (Marinated Cross-cut Short Ribs), I usually steer them towards the Ju Mul Luk, which are the thicker slabs of rib meat above the bones. They're marinated in the same sauce, but the Ju Mul Luk have more marbling and a lot less connective tissue, making them much less chewy. Plus, some of my friends have trouble dealing with the bone pieces in the Gal Bi.
(Lunch portion pictured.)
Another guy favorite is the Bulgogi, shreds of rib eye steak marinated in the ubiquitous garlic sauce. They're normally a crowd-pleaser, since they're a little cheaper than the most of the other offerings and are easy to eat over rice.
If I'm eating alone, I splurge and get myself some Sae Woo (Marinated Shrimp). A brief sear over the grill makes them juicy and plump, with just the right bit of char on the outside.
The best part about eating Korean BBQ is that your meal is guaranteed to be nutritionally balanced. Every meal comes with a startling number of Banchan, Korean sautéed or pickled vegetable side dishes. Occasionally they'll contain a little fish, meat, or egg, but the purpose here is to give you lots of vegetables to eat with your meat. The line-up is never exactly the same, since it will feature whatever fresh items the kitchen has to offer. However, the variety will always be dazzling. Plus, you get unlimited refills of Banchan. It's all-you-can-eat veggies!
The question of whether or not to order a spicy soup is always something I agonize over. On one hand, nothing lights a fire in your belly when it's cold like a bowl of bubbling soup laced with Kochukaru (Korean Chili Flakes). On the other hand, a plate of meat and a pot of soup are way too much food for two people. However, if you've got three or more, forgo a second plate of meat and get a soup. Your body will thank you.
Cat and Elonweis both seem partial to the Hae Mul Soon Tofu, a pot of clams, shrimp and silken tofu swimming in a sea of beef broth napalm. The version at Korea House BBQ isn't a good as the types offered by a soft tofu restaurant. However, the soup is still a warming treat spooned over rice or sipped straight. I like the Al Chi Ge (Cod Roe Soup), which replaces the tofu with cod ovaries that are both soft and crunchy at the same time.
Where Korea House BBQ shines is with their Min Uh Maewon Tang (Chilean Sea Bass Hot Pot). The chunks of moist Chilean sea bass are just a garnish. What I'm after is the savory elixir they're bobbing around in. I don't know what strange voodoo the restaurant uses to make this intensely flavored soup, but it makes my eyes tear up in both pain and joy when I eat it.
I usually visit Korea House BBQ for my grilled meat and soup fix. However, there are times, such as when I'm dining alone or the weather is too warm, when I'll order something else. The Gun Mandu (Potstickers), for example, make a light and affordable dinner when eaten with rice and Banchan. Korean potstickers are large and meaty, but mild in flavor and closer to Japanese gyoza than Chinese guotie.
If I'm in the mood for grilled fish, I get the Eemyunsu Gui, which is a whole, butterflied and broiled mackerel. The fish's oily flesh and natural sourness are great over rice. A little lemon juice over the top helps to cut the richness.
If it's hot, I get the Bibim Neng Myun, cold buckwheat noodles with pork, Asian pear, cucumber, and daikon in a lava-like sweet and spicy sauce. This dish cools you down by making you sweat, which helps your body get rid of heat and makes you feel cooler. Many of the ingredients are considered to have cooling Yin properties in traditional Chinese medicine. It's also delicious, although the chewiness of the buckwheat noodles can take some getting used to.
(San Che Bi Bim Bap - A rice bowl with sautéed fresh vegetables and ground meat.)
Korea House BBQ - My choice for dinner on the go. The perfect place for hot, filling, and healthy food on any night.
Bill:
Ross Gui - 19.99
Hweo Mit Gui - 20.99
Ju Mul Luk - 21.99
Bulgogi - 17.99
Sae Woo - 21.99
Hae Mul Soon Tofu - 9.99
Al Chi Ge - 14.99
Min Uh Maewon Tang - 14.99
Gun Mandu - 7.99
Eemyunsu Gui - 14.99
Bibim Neng Myun - 8.99
San Che Bi Bim Bap - 10.99
Flavor: A
Ambience: B+
Service: A-
ROI: B
Overall: A-
Korea House BBQ
5305 University Dr
Irvine, CA 92612
1-949-552-9998
While the storms that were supposed to lash Southern California left me disappointed, they still put me in the mood for my favorite winter treats; grilled meat and spicy soup. Most Americans consider BBQ a summer activity. Not me. Why make a hot summer day worse by spending it hunched over a big pile of glowing charcoal? Instead, when the air is cold and water is falling from the sky, cozying up to a toasty tabletop grill indoors makes all the sense in the world. Add a sizzling stone pot full of piping hot soup and you'll soon be ready to sneer at the worst winter has to offer.
Korea House BBQ is my chosen neighborhood spot to sling a few shrimp on the barbie. Sandwiched in an out-of-the-way shopping center between Turtle Rock and University Park, it offers everything I look for in a restaurant. It's close, the service is fast, the food is good, the portions are generous, and the prices are reasonable. Cat and I come here a lot when looking for immediate dining gratification after a long day.
Imagine this; you're tired and hungry. It's late. The usual chain of predictable disasters occurred at the office, leaving you fighting fires for most of the morning. Worse yet, the afternoon dragged. At times it looked like the clock was actually moving backwards. The commute was a nightmare. The commute is always a nightmare. In a few short hours, your ass needs to be in bed so you can wake up and do it all over again. There's no way you're stepping into the kitchen. You want a hot meal right away. What are your options? Steam-table? Pre-made pizza by the slice? Heart-cloggers All-You-Can-Eat Buffet? McGreaseBurger King? Say it ain't so!
The beauty of Korean BBQ is that it's the fastest, freshly-cooked meal you're likely to find, and Korea House BBQ restaurant does it right. Just a few minutes after you place your order, you can eat! They've already sliced, marinated, or aged the meat. It's good quality stuff too. You just slap it onto the handy gas grill set in your table, which is already doing double duty warming you up from the winter chill, give it a few minutes with a flip in the middle, and presto! Smokin' hot meat and rice are making their way into your waiting belly.
Since the plates of meat at Korea House BBQ are intended for family-style meals, the portions are large. A good rule of thumb is one plate for every two people, unless you're literally hungry enough to eat a cow. Cat swears by the Ross Gui, which is our usual choice. The thin slices of rib eye steak, deliciously marbled, cook up like crisp pieces of beefy bacon. They're insanely good, particularly when brushed with the sesame oil and salt dipping sauce provided.
Elonweis goes for the Hweo Mit Gui, thin slices of beef tongue marinated in a sweet garlic and soy sauce. Surprisingly tender, the tongue cooks up like the softest roast beef and isn't gamey or bloody. It's a very delicate flavor.
If I'm eating with a guy, they invariably want short ribs. But, rather than go with the standard Gal Bi (Marinated Cross-cut Short Ribs), I usually steer them towards the Ju Mul Luk, which are the thicker slabs of rib meat above the bones. They're marinated in the same sauce, but the Ju Mul Luk have more marbling and a lot less connective tissue, making them much less chewy. Plus, some of my friends have trouble dealing with the bone pieces in the Gal Bi.
(Lunch portion pictured.)
Another guy favorite is the Bulgogi, shreds of rib eye steak marinated in the ubiquitous garlic sauce. They're normally a crowd-pleaser, since they're a little cheaper than the most of the other offerings and are easy to eat over rice.
If I'm eating alone, I splurge and get myself some Sae Woo (Marinated Shrimp). A brief sear over the grill makes them juicy and plump, with just the right bit of char on the outside.
The best part about eating Korean BBQ is that your meal is guaranteed to be nutritionally balanced. Every meal comes with a startling number of Banchan, Korean sautéed or pickled vegetable side dishes. Occasionally they'll contain a little fish, meat, or egg, but the purpose here is to give you lots of vegetables to eat with your meat. The line-up is never exactly the same, since it will feature whatever fresh items the kitchen has to offer. However, the variety will always be dazzling. Plus, you get unlimited refills of Banchan. It's all-you-can-eat veggies!
The question of whether or not to order a spicy soup is always something I agonize over. On one hand, nothing lights a fire in your belly when it's cold like a bowl of bubbling soup laced with Kochukaru (Korean Chili Flakes). On the other hand, a plate of meat and a pot of soup are way too much food for two people. However, if you've got three or more, forgo a second plate of meat and get a soup. Your body will thank you.
Cat and Elonweis both seem partial to the Hae Mul Soon Tofu, a pot of clams, shrimp and silken tofu swimming in a sea of beef broth napalm. The version at Korea House BBQ isn't a good as the types offered by a soft tofu restaurant. However, the soup is still a warming treat spooned over rice or sipped straight. I like the Al Chi Ge (Cod Roe Soup), which replaces the tofu with cod ovaries that are both soft and crunchy at the same time.
Where Korea House BBQ shines is with their Min Uh Maewon Tang (Chilean Sea Bass Hot Pot). The chunks of moist Chilean sea bass are just a garnish. What I'm after is the savory elixir they're bobbing around in. I don't know what strange voodoo the restaurant uses to make this intensely flavored soup, but it makes my eyes tear up in both pain and joy when I eat it.
I usually visit Korea House BBQ for my grilled meat and soup fix. However, there are times, such as when I'm dining alone or the weather is too warm, when I'll order something else. The Gun Mandu (Potstickers), for example, make a light and affordable dinner when eaten with rice and Banchan. Korean potstickers are large and meaty, but mild in flavor and closer to Japanese gyoza than Chinese guotie.
If I'm in the mood for grilled fish, I get the Eemyunsu Gui, which is a whole, butterflied and broiled mackerel. The fish's oily flesh and natural sourness are great over rice. A little lemon juice over the top helps to cut the richness.
If it's hot, I get the Bibim Neng Myun, cold buckwheat noodles with pork, Asian pear, cucumber, and daikon in a lava-like sweet and spicy sauce. This dish cools you down by making you sweat, which helps your body get rid of heat and makes you feel cooler. Many of the ingredients are considered to have cooling Yin properties in traditional Chinese medicine. It's also delicious, although the chewiness of the buckwheat noodles can take some getting used to.
(San Che Bi Bim Bap - A rice bowl with sautéed fresh vegetables and ground meat.)
Korea House BBQ - My choice for dinner on the go. The perfect place for hot, filling, and healthy food on any night.
Bill:
Ross Gui - 19.99
Hweo Mit Gui - 20.99
Ju Mul Luk - 21.99
Bulgogi - 17.99
Sae Woo - 21.99
Hae Mul Soon Tofu - 9.99
Al Chi Ge - 14.99
Min Uh Maewon Tang - 14.99
Gun Mandu - 7.99
Eemyunsu Gui - 14.99
Bibim Neng Myun - 8.99
San Che Bi Bim Bap - 10.99
Flavor: A
Ambience: B+
Service: A-
ROI: B
Overall: A-
Korea House BBQ
5305 University Dr
Irvine, CA 92612
1-949-552-9998
10/31/2007
Maverick - San Francisco, CA [Eating]
(Pictures for this review taken with my Canon PowerShot SD800is. Transit shots taken with my Canon Rebel XTi.
Ton-Ton's Journey: Vancouver 2007 will continue on Monday, November 5, 2007.)
Writing about our misadventures in Vancouver made me recall a review I've been meaning to post for the longest time. For some reason, Cat and I just don't travel well. Something invariably goes wrong.
(Caltrain station in Mountain View.)
Cat and I were visiting Northern California for Semajim's wedding. Since Passionate Eater had given me such a teasing for not visiting her when I'd last been in the area for my Bachelor Party, I emailed her to see if she wanted to meet up. By sheer chance, she was setting up a food blogger brunch that weekend to celebrate her move to New Orleans. Cat and I were generously extended invitations.
(BART hub in Millbrae.)
The wedding and the brunch were on the same day. I was worried about traffic and parking, so I decided to use Silicon Valley's usually reliable mass transit system. You noticed the emphasis, right? In order to make sure we weren't late, Cat and I had decided to take an early train so we'd arrive at Maverick an hour early. We were planning to poke around the Mission District and maybe pick up a snack. The best laid plans...
Our northbound train was held up because the train in front of it was suffering mechanical difficulties. As the estimated delay time grew, I became increasingly antsy, until I finally accepted the fact that I was going to be late to the brunch. I phoned Maverick and asked the host to let Passionate Eater know that we were being delayed, and to ask the bloggers to start without us. When our train finally arrived an hour and a half later, I was a wreck. Despite all of my precautions, I was going to miss most of the meet up.
The ride up to Millbrae and the transfer onto the subway were mostly uneventful. We eventually arrived forty-five minutes after everyone else. A grinning Passionate Eater waved to us over to a table just inside the restaurant and introduced us to her Beau, Chef Ben of Cooking with the Single Guy, Foodhoe of Foodhoe's Foraging, and the Bunrabs, a husband and wife food blogging team. As Passionate Eater later said, I couldn't believe how attractive everyone was. To my surprise and embarrassment, they'd waited patiently for us. Thanks, guys. Thank you so much.
A neighborhood eatery in San Francisco's colorful (and odiferous) Mission District, Maverick has garnered rave reviews from local food bloggers and publications over the past two years. Imaginative dishes, excellent service, and a pleasant ambience have earned the restaurant its reputation. Seating is cramped, to say the least, with a tiny dining area in the front and a slightly larger side room. Wild gesticulation is not recommended.
I'm always a little anxious when meeting a group of strangers for the first time. I'm never sure if we'll get along. It was a surprise, then, how quickly I was able to relax with the San Francisco food bloggers. In spite of widely disparate backgrounds, our shared love for food gave us solid common ground from which to branch out to other subjects. The conversation wandered across a wide range of topics, including food, photography, cameras, films, travel, programming, advertising, video games, law, cooking, education, and public transit. It was truly enjoyable.
Since some of the others had already ordered drinks, I decided to join them by getting a soothing Arnold Palmer. A concoction of equal amounts lemonade and iced tea, it was undoubtedly the inspiration for the overly sweetened commecial lemon teas Americans enjoy today. However, the drink is quite pleasant when properly mixed. Sadly, Maverick's version was watery and lacking in flavor.
Our food arrived surprisingly quickly, given the size of our party. Cat's Cornmeal Buttermilk Pancakes were a crispy, golden treat. While the cornmeal added flavor, texture, and natural sweetness, the chef had managed to keep it from weighing down the batter, resulting in a very fluffy pancake that was too sweet for some. The grilled chicken and apple sausage side, made in house, was less enjoyable. There was something off-putting about the combination of ingredients when eaten with the pancakes. A more strongly seasoned sausage might have fared better.
My Andouille Sausage "Benedict" was much less conflicted. Two poached eggs pinned bits of grilled Andouille sausage to mats of toasted English muffin. A rich Jalapeno hollandaise blanketed each mound. Although the menu had mentioned there was crawfish in the dish, I couldn't find any. However, the other elements worked together so well that I didn't miss it. The herbed county potatoes generously piled on the plate were handy for scooping up every drop of the delectable golden sauce.
Chef Ben and Bunrab Chubby picked up sinful plates of Duck Confit Hash, which you can read about here.
The ever fearless Foodhoe went one better and ordered the artery-clogging Fried Oyster Po’Boy, which you can read about here.
After our excellent brunch, we continued the conversation while going for a walk. Passionate Eater, eager to show me some of the other culinary goodies in the area, took us past some San Francisco notables, including Delfina, Tartine, Bi-Rite Market, and Bi-Rite Creamery. I'll cover the last two in separate posts. Sadly, no one was up to taking my suggestion of lunch at Delfina.
It was getting late in the afternoon. Cat and I still had Semajim's wedding to get to. We said our goodbyes to our new friends and headed to the BART station escorted by Chef Ben and Foodhoe, who'd generously offered to make sure we didn't get lost. Guess what happened. Yup, our southbound train was also late. We ended up missing the entire ceremony. *sigh*
Maverick - One of the Mission District's not-so-hidden gems. You'll need to brave the unique ambiance of the neighborhood in order to get to the restaurant, but it's worth the trek. Despite my horrible experience with Caltrain, I still recommend it if you're planning to visit from the Bay Area. You'll save a lot of money on gas and parking. For the most part, you'll save time as well, especially during the congested weekdays. In my decades of riding Silicon Valley's public transit system, I've only been delayed like that on one other occasion. I guess I was about due.
Bill:
Arnold Palmer - ?
Cornmeal Buttermilk Pancakes - $11.00
Andouille Sausage "Benedict" - $13.00
Flavor: B
Ambience: A
Service: A
ROI: B
Overall: A-
Maverick
3316 17th Street
San Francisco, CA 94110
1-415-863-3061
Restaurant website
The Foodies Digest - The blog of Maverick Chef and Owner, Scott Youkilis.
Maverick reviews by my food blogger friends:
Posts about our brunch:
Ton-Ton's Journey: Vancouver 2007 will continue on Monday, November 5, 2007.)
Writing about our misadventures in Vancouver made me recall a review I've been meaning to post for the longest time. For some reason, Cat and I just don't travel well. Something invariably goes wrong.
(Caltrain station in Mountain View.)
Cat and I were visiting Northern California for Semajim's wedding. Since Passionate Eater had given me such a teasing for not visiting her when I'd last been in the area for my Bachelor Party, I emailed her to see if she wanted to meet up. By sheer chance, she was setting up a food blogger brunch that weekend to celebrate her move to New Orleans. Cat and I were generously extended invitations.
(BART hub in Millbrae.)
The wedding and the brunch were on the same day. I was worried about traffic and parking, so I decided to use Silicon Valley's usually reliable mass transit system. You noticed the emphasis, right? In order to make sure we weren't late, Cat and I had decided to take an early train so we'd arrive at Maverick an hour early. We were planning to poke around the Mission District and maybe pick up a snack. The best laid plans...
Our northbound train was held up because the train in front of it was suffering mechanical difficulties. As the estimated delay time grew, I became increasingly antsy, until I finally accepted the fact that I was going to be late to the brunch. I phoned Maverick and asked the host to let Passionate Eater know that we were being delayed, and to ask the bloggers to start without us. When our train finally arrived an hour and a half later, I was a wreck. Despite all of my precautions, I was going to miss most of the meet up.
The ride up to Millbrae and the transfer onto the subway were mostly uneventful. We eventually arrived forty-five minutes after everyone else. A grinning Passionate Eater waved to us over to a table just inside the restaurant and introduced us to her Beau, Chef Ben of Cooking with the Single Guy, Foodhoe of Foodhoe's Foraging, and the Bunrabs, a husband and wife food blogging team. As Passionate Eater later said, I couldn't believe how attractive everyone was. To my surprise and embarrassment, they'd waited patiently for us. Thanks, guys. Thank you so much.
A neighborhood eatery in San Francisco's colorful (and odiferous) Mission District, Maverick has garnered rave reviews from local food bloggers and publications over the past two years. Imaginative dishes, excellent service, and a pleasant ambience have earned the restaurant its reputation. Seating is cramped, to say the least, with a tiny dining area in the front and a slightly larger side room. Wild gesticulation is not recommended.
I'm always a little anxious when meeting a group of strangers for the first time. I'm never sure if we'll get along. It was a surprise, then, how quickly I was able to relax with the San Francisco food bloggers. In spite of widely disparate backgrounds, our shared love for food gave us solid common ground from which to branch out to other subjects. The conversation wandered across a wide range of topics, including food, photography, cameras, films, travel, programming, advertising, video games, law, cooking, education, and public transit. It was truly enjoyable.
Since some of the others had already ordered drinks, I decided to join them by getting a soothing Arnold Palmer. A concoction of equal amounts lemonade and iced tea, it was undoubtedly the inspiration for the overly sweetened commecial lemon teas Americans enjoy today. However, the drink is quite pleasant when properly mixed. Sadly, Maverick's version was watery and lacking in flavor.
Our food arrived surprisingly quickly, given the size of our party. Cat's Cornmeal Buttermilk Pancakes were a crispy, golden treat. While the cornmeal added flavor, texture, and natural sweetness, the chef had managed to keep it from weighing down the batter, resulting in a very fluffy pancake that was too sweet for some. The grilled chicken and apple sausage side, made in house, was less enjoyable. There was something off-putting about the combination of ingredients when eaten with the pancakes. A more strongly seasoned sausage might have fared better.
My Andouille Sausage "Benedict" was much less conflicted. Two poached eggs pinned bits of grilled Andouille sausage to mats of toasted English muffin. A rich Jalapeno hollandaise blanketed each mound. Although the menu had mentioned there was crawfish in the dish, I couldn't find any. However, the other elements worked together so well that I didn't miss it. The herbed county potatoes generously piled on the plate were handy for scooping up every drop of the delectable golden sauce.
Chef Ben and Bunrab Chubby picked up sinful plates of Duck Confit Hash, which you can read about here.
The ever fearless Foodhoe went one better and ordered the artery-clogging Fried Oyster Po’Boy, which you can read about here.
After our excellent brunch, we continued the conversation while going for a walk. Passionate Eater, eager to show me some of the other culinary goodies in the area, took us past some San Francisco notables, including Delfina, Tartine, Bi-Rite Market, and Bi-Rite Creamery. I'll cover the last two in separate posts. Sadly, no one was up to taking my suggestion of lunch at Delfina.
It was getting late in the afternoon. Cat and I still had Semajim's wedding to get to. We said our goodbyes to our new friends and headed to the BART station escorted by Chef Ben and Foodhoe, who'd generously offered to make sure we didn't get lost. Guess what happened. Yup, our southbound train was also late. We ended up missing the entire ceremony. *sigh*
Maverick - One of the Mission District's not-so-hidden gems. You'll need to brave the unique ambiance of the neighborhood in order to get to the restaurant, but it's worth the trek. Despite my horrible experience with Caltrain, I still recommend it if you're planning to visit from the Bay Area. You'll save a lot of money on gas and parking. For the most part, you'll save time as well, especially during the congested weekdays. In my decades of riding Silicon Valley's public transit system, I've only been delayed like that on one other occasion. I guess I was about due.
Bill:
Arnold Palmer - ?
Cornmeal Buttermilk Pancakes - $11.00
Andouille Sausage "Benedict" - $13.00
Flavor: B
Ambience: A
Service: A
ROI: B
Overall: A-
Maverick
3316 17th Street
San Francisco, CA 94110
1-415-863-3061
Restaurant website
The Foodies Digest - The blog of Maverick Chef and Owner, Scott Youkilis.
Maverick reviews by my food blogger friends:
- Dish on Dining: Maverick on Cooking with the Single Guy.
- Maverick, San Francisco on Foodhoe's Foraging.
- Maverick Again on Foodhoe's Foraging.
- Maverick by the Bunrabs.
Posts about our brunch:
10/08/2007
Tropika & Getting to Richmond (Ton-Ton's Journey: Vancouver 2007 Part 2) - Richmond, BC [Eating]
(Pictures for this post taken with my Canon Rebel XTi.
Read the rest of Ton-Ton's Journey: Vancouver 2007.)
As bad as the traffic was getting up to the border, it was a thousand times worse on the BC-99, the main highway connecting Seattle to Vancouver. A head on collision had shut down the highway in both directions as police, paramedics, and a medical evacuation helicopter worked the scene. Our car was less than a quarter mile from the site of the accident when we ground to a halt. The hours passed while we watched the line of cars behind us get longer and longer until, out of desperation, some cars began cutting across the grass median to reach the southbound side and an exit to the trunk road. Others ventured the wrong way up an onramp in an attempt to reach an overpass that would also take them to the trunk road. Large semi trucks, unable to turn around on the narrow highway, were even backing up the onramp. After seeing a car high side itself on the median, I decided to try the other option. Luckily, a line vehicles fleeing the immobilized thoroughfare had formed at this point, so there was little danger of meeting someone trying to get on the highway.
It was a relief when we finally reached the River Rock Casino Resort in Richmond. However, we didn't have much time to explore. Ben and Suanne from Chow Times had been waiting in the lobby for over an hour with their sons, Nanzaro and Arkensen. It took another half hour to straighten things out with the hotel, which had managed to lose our reservations. I appreciate how patient Ben was during the entire affair. In an attempt to make me feel better, he told me, "Sometimes these things happen when you travel."
Once we'd dropped our luggage off in our hotel room, we were finally ready for dinner. To make up for keeping Ben and his family waiting for so long, I offered to treat them to the restaurant of their choice. Ben's pick was Tropika, a "Malaysian & Thai" restaurant in Richmond's Aberdeen Centre.
Tropika was a cozy restaurant with high ceilings and tall glass windows. It looked like it would be fairly bright and airy during the day. At night, the muted lighting and dark tones of the furniture created an intimate environment despite the bustle. Since my experience with Malaysian food was limited, I asked Ben, who is Malaysian-Canadian, to select the dishes for the evening. He did a great job.
The first dish we sampled was a heaping plate of Fried Hokkien Mee, a traditional Chinese noodle dish with egg, pork, shrimp, bean sprouts, and squid. I knew from regular visits to Ben and Suanne's blog that it was a favorite of Nanzaro and Arkensen's. Cat and I enjoyed the texture of the fried egg noodles, lightly coated in a savory sauce. Although Ben had warned her that they were spicy, Cat was found the noodles quite mild.
Next was the Hainanese Chicken, simmered in a rich chicken and pork broth, allowed to cool, then chopped and served with two dipping sauces. What I'd really wanted was Hainan Chicken Rice, which is one of my favorite Malaysian dishes. Cat is also very fond of it. Unfortunately, I hadn't realized that Hainan Chicken Rice at Tropika had to be ordered separately from the Hainanese Chicken and spent the entire meal waiting for chicken rice that never came. My own fault for not reading the menu more carefully. The chicken, however, was moist and succulent. Both the ginger and chili dipping sauces were good accompaniments.
We had to have at least one vegetable or our mothers would have been angry, so Ben ordered the Sambal Kang-Kong. Fresh Chinese water spinach (kong qing cai) was stir-fried in a saliva inducing blend of fiery sambal chilies and pungent shrimp paste. The punchy, slightly fermented flavor tasted truly Malaysian to me. I found it quite invigorating although Cat, who loves having water spinach stir-fried with garlic, was a bit taken aback.
The last dish we tried was the Malay Fish Head Curry Hot Pot. The head of some sort of large white fish had been deep fried, then stewed in a rich yellow curry of coconut mild and spices. The sauce was decent, especially when mixed with some steamed rice. I've a big fan of fish heads, particularly the cheek portions, so I really enjoyed picking this one over.
(A car playing a Sony demo parked in front of the hotel.)
After some pleasant conversation, we decided to call it a night. The boys had school the next day, and Cat and I were both exhausted from our long trip. When we got back to the hotel, we found it in full swing. Sony had just begun a two day dealer show hosted by the River Rock.
We tried to get into the demo, but you needed to be a vendor to qualify and there weren't any more passes available. I settled for taking a picture of Ton-Ton on top of the Sony sign.
The casino was really hopping, but we were too tired to play. Instead, we dragged our exhausted bodies up to our hotel room, collapsed in the bed, and passed out.
(View of the Fraser River from our hotel at night.)
Ben, Suanne, Arkensen, and Nanzaro, thank you for being so patient with us. We're very sorry that we kept you waiting for so long. Dinner was great fun and we hope to eat with you again when we visit Vancouver next year.
Read Ben's review of Tropika, Tropika in Richmond with ChubbyPanda, on Chow Times.
Bill (Currency in Canadian dollars):
Fried Hokkien Mee - $10.95
Hainanese Chicken (1/4) - $7.95
Sambal Kang-Kong - Seasonal
Malay Curry Fish Head Hot Pot - $14.95
Steamed Rice - $1.25/each
Flavor: B
Ambience: B+
Service: B+
ROI: B-
Overall: B
Tropika
Unit 1830, Aberdeen Centre
4151 Hazelbridge Way
Richmond, BC, Canada V6X 4J7
1-604-233-7002
Restaurant website
Other Locations:
Tropika
2975 Cambie Street
Vancouver, BC, Canada V5Z 2V7
1-604-879-6002
Tropika
1128 Robson Street
Vancouver, BC, Canada V6E 1B2
1-604-737-6002
Read the rest of Ton-Ton's Journey: Vancouver 2007.)
As bad as the traffic was getting up to the border, it was a thousand times worse on the BC-99, the main highway connecting Seattle to Vancouver. A head on collision had shut down the highway in both directions as police, paramedics, and a medical evacuation helicopter worked the scene. Our car was less than a quarter mile from the site of the accident when we ground to a halt. The hours passed while we watched the line of cars behind us get longer and longer until, out of desperation, some cars began cutting across the grass median to reach the southbound side and an exit to the trunk road. Others ventured the wrong way up an onramp in an attempt to reach an overpass that would also take them to the trunk road. Large semi trucks, unable to turn around on the narrow highway, were even backing up the onramp. After seeing a car high side itself on the median, I decided to try the other option. Luckily, a line vehicles fleeing the immobilized thoroughfare had formed at this point, so there was little danger of meeting someone trying to get on the highway.
It was a relief when we finally reached the River Rock Casino Resort in Richmond. However, we didn't have much time to explore. Ben and Suanne from Chow Times had been waiting in the lobby for over an hour with their sons, Nanzaro and Arkensen. It took another half hour to straighten things out with the hotel, which had managed to lose our reservations. I appreciate how patient Ben was during the entire affair. In an attempt to make me feel better, he told me, "Sometimes these things happen when you travel."
Once we'd dropped our luggage off in our hotel room, we were finally ready for dinner. To make up for keeping Ben and his family waiting for so long, I offered to treat them to the restaurant of their choice. Ben's pick was Tropika, a "Malaysian & Thai" restaurant in Richmond's Aberdeen Centre.
Tropika was a cozy restaurant with high ceilings and tall glass windows. It looked like it would be fairly bright and airy during the day. At night, the muted lighting and dark tones of the furniture created an intimate environment despite the bustle. Since my experience with Malaysian food was limited, I asked Ben, who is Malaysian-Canadian, to select the dishes for the evening. He did a great job.
The first dish we sampled was a heaping plate of Fried Hokkien Mee, a traditional Chinese noodle dish with egg, pork, shrimp, bean sprouts, and squid. I knew from regular visits to Ben and Suanne's blog that it was a favorite of Nanzaro and Arkensen's. Cat and I enjoyed the texture of the fried egg noodles, lightly coated in a savory sauce. Although Ben had warned her that they were spicy, Cat was found the noodles quite mild.
Next was the Hainanese Chicken, simmered in a rich chicken and pork broth, allowed to cool, then chopped and served with two dipping sauces. What I'd really wanted was Hainan Chicken Rice, which is one of my favorite Malaysian dishes. Cat is also very fond of it. Unfortunately, I hadn't realized that Hainan Chicken Rice at Tropika had to be ordered separately from the Hainanese Chicken and spent the entire meal waiting for chicken rice that never came. My own fault for not reading the menu more carefully. The chicken, however, was moist and succulent. Both the ginger and chili dipping sauces were good accompaniments.
We had to have at least one vegetable or our mothers would have been angry, so Ben ordered the Sambal Kang-Kong. Fresh Chinese water spinach (kong qing cai) was stir-fried in a saliva inducing blend of fiery sambal chilies and pungent shrimp paste. The punchy, slightly fermented flavor tasted truly Malaysian to me. I found it quite invigorating although Cat, who loves having water spinach stir-fried with garlic, was a bit taken aback.
The last dish we tried was the Malay Fish Head Curry Hot Pot. The head of some sort of large white fish had been deep fried, then stewed in a rich yellow curry of coconut mild and spices. The sauce was decent, especially when mixed with some steamed rice. I've a big fan of fish heads, particularly the cheek portions, so I really enjoyed picking this one over.
(A car playing a Sony demo parked in front of the hotel.)
After some pleasant conversation, we decided to call it a night. The boys had school the next day, and Cat and I were both exhausted from our long trip. When we got back to the hotel, we found it in full swing. Sony had just begun a two day dealer show hosted by the River Rock.
We tried to get into the demo, but you needed to be a vendor to qualify and there weren't any more passes available. I settled for taking a picture of Ton-Ton on top of the Sony sign.
The casino was really hopping, but we were too tired to play. Instead, we dragged our exhausted bodies up to our hotel room, collapsed in the bed, and passed out.
(View of the Fraser River from our hotel at night.)
Ben, Suanne, Arkensen, and Nanzaro, thank you for being so patient with us. We're very sorry that we kept you waiting for so long. Dinner was great fun and we hope to eat with you again when we visit Vancouver next year.
Read Ben's review of Tropika, Tropika in Richmond with ChubbyPanda, on Chow Times.
Bill (Currency in Canadian dollars):
Fried Hokkien Mee - $10.95
Hainanese Chicken (1/4) - $7.95
Sambal Kang-Kong - Seasonal
Malay Curry Fish Head Hot Pot - $14.95
Steamed Rice - $1.25/each
Flavor: B
Ambience: B+
Service: B+
ROI: B-
Overall: B
Tropika
Unit 1830, Aberdeen Centre
4151 Hazelbridge Way
Richmond, BC, Canada V6X 4J7
1-604-233-7002
Restaurant website
Other Locations:
Tropika
2975 Cambie Street
Vancouver, BC, Canada V5Z 2V7
1-604-879-6002
Tropika
1128 Robson Street
Vancouver, BC, Canada V6E 1B2
1-604-737-6002
10/05/2007
White Spot Redux, Northward Ho! (Ton-Ton's Journey: Vancouver 2007 Part 1) - Langley, BC [Eating]
(Pictures for this post taken with my Canon Rebel XTi and my Canon PowerShot SD800is.
Read the rest of Ton-Ton's Journey: Vancouver 2007.)
When the time finally came for our yearly trip to Canada, Cat and I were more than ready. The burning itch to get away from our jobs, our home, and our responsibilities was almost too much to bear, and I couldn't wait to run off to the Great White North. My only concern was whether or not I'd be able to document all of the great food we were sure to eat. The answer was simple. I needed backup; backup other than my loving wife.
(Oh Canada...)
Cat is wonderful, but she eats like a bird and views my food blogging with a sort of fond tolerance. She likes food, but she's not in like with it. Or, as my friend the Family Man puts it, she eats to live while I live to eat. No. I needed a sidekick. Someone with the same appetite for food, the same obsession. I needed someone who shared my penchant for taking random pictures and who'd have three lunches in one day just to try three different restaurants.
(My Mini-Me.)
What I needed someone exactly like me, one-eight my size. Meet Ton-Ton the Panda, my eminently portable traveling companion and a new blog contributor. Whenever I go somewhere outside of California, I'll have Ton-Ton along with me. He likes food and adventures.
(Ton-Ton checks out our plane.)
John Wayne Airport is only a few minutes from our house, so we usually fly out from Orange County. You couldn't pay me to drive to LAX (Los Angeles International Airport), particularly during morning traffic. Three hour drive my butt.
(He never did get 14-across.)
The flight from Orange County to Seattle, Washington, only took two and a half hours, so it wasn't too bad. The airline hostess gave Ton-Ton an extra bag of peanuts. Everyone loves a panda.
Why Seattle? Why not fly straight into Vancouver International? Easy. Free car rental upgrade from my last trip there. Check out the sweet ride they gave me. I was on cloud nine. Besides, it's only an hour and a half drive from Seattle to Vancouver.
Or so we thought. I hadn't figured on the line at the border. Last year it didn't take us very long. This year, it took over an hour. We also hit some really bad traffic trying to get out of Seattle. I think they're putting in a new light rail system or something. In any case, I don't recommend crossing the border by land anymore. What a pain.
(Ton-Ton takes a turn.)
Once we were through that infernal line, we started looking for a place to grab a quick late lunch. A few bags of pretzels may be a decent breakfast for a small bear, but Cat and I were starving.
Whenever we visit Cat's relatives in British Columbia, the first thing we do is stop by a White Spot for some burgers. It's been a tradition in Cat's family for decades, and is one that I'll be happy to pass on to our kids. This particular White Spot was just outside of Cloverdale, which is where they film Smallville. I thought it might be fun to drive through the area and see if we could spot anything familiar. Yeah, not so much.
Since I've already covered the White Spot fairly thoroughly in my last review of it, I'm mostly going to let the pictures do the rest of the talking.
(Panda-sized menus.)
(Mmmm... Triple-thick Chocolate Milkshake. Sooo gooood...)
(Eyeing Cat's BC Chicken Burger.)
(Setting up his camera.)
(Locked, cocked, and ready to rock.)
(Bacon Cheddar Burger)
(Chicken Burger Supreme)
(Salad is better than fries.)
(Hunkering down to a Grilled Chicken Plate.)
(Time to move on.)
The White Spot - Not a bad bump in the road.
Read my first review of the White Spot.
19651 Fraser Highway
Langley, BC V3A 4C6, Canada
1-604534-1222
Restaurant Website
Other locations:
The White Spot claims over 60 locations in Canada. Previous attempts to establish footholds in the US have failed, although there's some hope if you live in a northern border state.
Read the rest of Ton-Ton's Journey: Vancouver 2007.)
When the time finally came for our yearly trip to Canada, Cat and I were more than ready. The burning itch to get away from our jobs, our home, and our responsibilities was almost too much to bear, and I couldn't wait to run off to the Great White North. My only concern was whether or not I'd be able to document all of the great food we were sure to eat. The answer was simple. I needed backup; backup other than my loving wife.
(Oh Canada...)
Cat is wonderful, but she eats like a bird and views my food blogging with a sort of fond tolerance. She likes food, but she's not in like with it. Or, as my friend the Family Man puts it, she eats to live while I live to eat. No. I needed a sidekick. Someone with the same appetite for food, the same obsession. I needed someone who shared my penchant for taking random pictures and who'd have three lunches in one day just to try three different restaurants.
(My Mini-Me.)
What I needed someone exactly like me, one-eight my size. Meet Ton-Ton the Panda, my eminently portable traveling companion and a new blog contributor. Whenever I go somewhere outside of California, I'll have Ton-Ton along with me. He likes food and adventures.
(Ton-Ton checks out our plane.)
John Wayne Airport is only a few minutes from our house, so we usually fly out from Orange County. You couldn't pay me to drive to LAX (Los Angeles International Airport), particularly during morning traffic. Three hour drive my butt.
(He never did get 14-across.)
The flight from Orange County to Seattle, Washington, only took two and a half hours, so it wasn't too bad. The airline hostess gave Ton-Ton an extra bag of peanuts. Everyone loves a panda.
Why Seattle? Why not fly straight into Vancouver International? Easy. Free car rental upgrade from my last trip there. Check out the sweet ride they gave me. I was on cloud nine. Besides, it's only an hour and a half drive from Seattle to Vancouver.
Or so we thought. I hadn't figured on the line at the border. Last year it didn't take us very long. This year, it took over an hour. We also hit some really bad traffic trying to get out of Seattle. I think they're putting in a new light rail system or something. In any case, I don't recommend crossing the border by land anymore. What a pain.
(Ton-Ton takes a turn.)
Once we were through that infernal line, we started looking for a place to grab a quick late lunch. A few bags of pretzels may be a decent breakfast for a small bear, but Cat and I were starving.
Whenever we visit Cat's relatives in British Columbia, the first thing we do is stop by a White Spot for some burgers. It's been a tradition in Cat's family for decades, and is one that I'll be happy to pass on to our kids. This particular White Spot was just outside of Cloverdale, which is where they film Smallville. I thought it might be fun to drive through the area and see if we could spot anything familiar. Yeah, not so much.
Since I've already covered the White Spot fairly thoroughly in my last review of it, I'm mostly going to let the pictures do the rest of the talking.
(Panda-sized menus.)
(Mmmm... Triple-thick Chocolate Milkshake. Sooo gooood...)
(Eyeing Cat's BC Chicken Burger.)
(Setting up his camera.)
(Locked, cocked, and ready to rock.)
(Bacon Cheddar Burger)
(Chicken Burger Supreme)
(Salad is better than fries.)
(Hunkering down to a Grilled Chicken Plate.)
(Time to move on.)
The White Spot - Not a bad bump in the road.
Read my first review of the White Spot.
19651 Fraser Highway
Langley, BC V3A 4C6, Canada
1-604534-1222
Restaurant Website
Other locations:
The White Spot claims over 60 locations in Canada. Previous attempts to establish footholds in the US have failed, although there's some hope if you live in a northern border state.
8/30/2007
China Garden (Dim Sum Series) - Irvine, CA [Eating]
(Pictures for this review taken with my Canon PowerShot SD100, Canon PowerShot SD800is, and Canon Rebel XTi.
The first two introductory paragraphs are the same in all articles in my Dim Sum Series. Feel free to skip down to the first picture if you've already read them.)
Dim sum restaurants are a hotly contested topic amongst Orange County foodies. Every person has their favorite, and defends it with an almost rabid intensity on the message boards. Read any thread and you'll find that Seafood World, Seafood Paradise, and Dragon Phoenix Palace in Little Saigon will have invariably emerged as top contenders. It's a certainty that someone will mention China Garden in Irvine as an acceptable alternative, and bash other restaurants like Furiwa. If it's a slow day on the Net, you might even see armed encampments form, arguing vociferously as to whether or not Dragon Phoenix has fallen from grace and been surpassed by Seafood World, or if new dim sum restaurant X holds a candle to any of the perennial favorites. The answer is invariably "no".
The most passionate flamers are locals who grew up eating at a particular restaurant, delivering their judgments about all of the others as if their opinions carry the weight of the ages, and launching verbal tirades against those of different dim sum faiths. It's difficult, then, for a dim sum newcomer in Orange County to gauge the veracity of any of the statements and decide which dim sum restaurant to visit. This is why I chose to start my Dim Sum Series. As a relatively recent arrival to Orange County, I'm impartial when it comes to local dim sum restaurants. I don't have any favorites. I just want to give my readers enough information to make an informed decision when choosing a dim sum dining location. Take everything I say with a dab of chili oil. I'm just a guy who likes food. Ultimately, the best way to decide if a restaurant is worth eating at is to try it yourself.
The reigning king of Irvine's dim sum establishments, China Garden is an iconic building that exudes a sense of permanence in the otherwise transitory restaurant world. For over ten years, it has survived rising gas prices, seasonal and economic slumps, and even a fire that closed the restaurant down for a time.
Despite these hardships, China Garden has continued to serve authentic and delicious Cantonese cuisine at highly competitive prices. In any discussion about Orange County dim sum, China Garden will inevitably be mentioned as a must-try. It's no wonder, then, that this Irvine eatery is beloved by locals and local food bloggers alike, including Professor Salt, Rasa Malaysia, and Elmomonster.
On weekends, the dining area resembles a battlefield, as crowds fill the restaurant to capacity and spill out onto the front lawn. Families just out from church or Chinese school, bleary eyed college students looking for something to take the edge off of their hangovers, and the occasional bemused Westerner, all gather seeking their dim sum fix. Although wait times for a table can exceed an hour, China Garden's popularity is unaffected.
La You (Chili Oil, Chinese red gold.)
During my three visits for this review, I discovered that the best time to go for weekend dim sum is at 10:00am, when the restaurant opens. With luck, you'll beat the after church/Chinese school rush. Even then, you may find yourself waiting if there are enough early birds ahead of you.
The service at China Garden is brusque, but efficient. Flagging down a waiter is easy. They usually respond to requests with alacrity. The numerous dim sum carts make complete circuits of the dining area frequently, although the cart ladies are often gruff and intimidating, and will try to sell you everything they're carrying. There are worse fates than a table full of dim sum, I suppose.
Unlike many of the dim sum restaurants I've sampled during this series, the fried items at China Garden are surprisingly good. Take this Jiao Yen You Yu (Fried Pepper Squid), for example. While the batter was a little thick for my taste, none of the pieces felt soaked in grease. The squid was tender and well seasoned with the peppers and salt. The browned garlic bits were so addictive they should have been banned. Each one was a tiny explosion of caramelized flavor that made my taste buds shimmy like the grass skirt on a Hawaiian hula girl's hips. All I wanted was a bowl of rice and a big spoon.
The Yu Jue (Fried Taro Cakes) were excellent. The honeycombed taro batter was light and airy, melting away on my tongue.
The scallop embedded in each piece was perfectly cooked, while the minced pork filling added the right amount of saltiness to season the otherwise bland ingredients.
However, the real draws of any dim sum establishment are its steamed items. Here, China Garden really shines, flawlessly executing the complex flavors of traditional Cantonese dim sum. Take the always popular Xia Jiao (Shrimp Dumplings). With their resilient skins and juicy shrimp fillings, China Garden's Xia Jiao are chewy parcels of crustacean delight. Bubba Gump, eat your heart out.
For those looking for a different take on an old favorite, the Jiu Huang Xia Jiao (Shrimp and Green Onion Dumplings) kick it up a notch with the pungent aroma of sautéed green onions and a phalanx of shrimp soldiers ready to stop up your mouth and turn back the Persian army. Ho!
Then there are the Yu Zi Shao Mai (Roe-topped Meatball Dumplings), the yang to the Xia Jiao's yin. Dense, meaty, and speckled with fish eggs, each pork and mushroom meatball is a hefty mouthful of bold flavor.
The god-king of the steamed dumplings are the Xiao Long Bao (Little Steamer Dumplings); each with a meaty nucleus bobbing in rich gelatin, barely restrained by a thin membrane.
Where the dim sum really gets interesting is with the specialty items. China Garden has a large and varied menu containing a number of popular favorites, like this Luo Buo Gao (Savory Turnip Cake). Slices of steamed rice flour cake containing shredded turnip and dried shrimp are pan fried to a crispy finish for a wonderful combination of textures and flavors.
You can't have dim sum without ordering Cha Shao Bao (Baked BBQ Pork Buns) at least once. With their sweet pork filling encased in an airy, brioche-like bread, these sticky buns are popular with diners of all ages.
The He Fen (Rice Noodle Sheets) are a familiar comfort food in both Chinese and Vietnamese cuisine. Rice flour batter is spread over a heated metal plate and steamed into thin sheets, then used to wrap either shrimp or thinly sliced beef and betal leaves. This version contains beef and is served with a sweetened soy sauce.
Pi Dan Shou Rou Zhou (Rice Porridge with Preserved Egg and Pork) is a taste I acquired from my mother. A gently stewed porridge made with chicken stock is seasoned with shreds of lean pork, cilantro, and minced pieces of "Thousand year egg". The black, earthy eggs aren't really from a thousand years ago. Rather, they're preserved in clay, which is spiked with lime, salt, and ash. The corrosive minerals "cook" the egg and give it its unique flavor. The subtle rice porridge is the perfect vehicle for spreading the unique flavor of the egg, punctuated by pork and cilantro, throughout your mouth.
My frequent accomplice in food adventuring, Elonweis, is the one who got me addicted to Xian Zhu Juan (Bean Curd Skin Roll). Seasoned pork, shrimp, mushrooms, and bamboo shoots are rolled up in bean curd skin, deep fried, and then steamed with a savory brown sauce. While Elonweis's mother makes the best Xian Zhu Juan I've ever tried, her brother, Alphanarf, and I both find China Garden's an acceptable substitute, much like the sickly sweet rush of methadone is an acceptable substitute for crack. It stops the cravings, if only for a little while. Thank you, Trainspotting.
The Stewed Tripe is a revelation. A cow has four different stomachs, each with its own unique texture. This dish lets you enjoy every type, all enveloped in a sweet and complex red sauce. Try as we might, Alphanarf and I weren't able to decipher all of the ingredients. I'd bet money Chinese red vinegar was involved, though.
China Garden - A sure-fire crowd pleaser. Their flavors are consistent and authentic. Definitely a must-try place for dim sum.
Bill (just dim sum ranges)
A Items - 2.25
B Items - 3.25
C Items - 4.24
D Items - 5.25
E Items - 6.25
Flavor: A+ (averaged over three visits)
Ambience: B
Service: B
ROI: A+
Overall: A-
Irvine China Garden
14825 Jeffrey Rd
Irvine, CA 92618
1-949-653-9988
Read more China Garden reviews from my food blogger friends.
The first two introductory paragraphs are the same in all articles in my Dim Sum Series. Feel free to skip down to the first picture if you've already read them.)
Dim sum restaurants are a hotly contested topic amongst Orange County foodies. Every person has their favorite, and defends it with an almost rabid intensity on the message boards. Read any thread and you'll find that Seafood World, Seafood Paradise, and Dragon Phoenix Palace in Little Saigon will have invariably emerged as top contenders. It's a certainty that someone will mention China Garden in Irvine as an acceptable alternative, and bash other restaurants like Furiwa. If it's a slow day on the Net, you might even see armed encampments form, arguing vociferously as to whether or not Dragon Phoenix has fallen from grace and been surpassed by Seafood World, or if new dim sum restaurant X holds a candle to any of the perennial favorites. The answer is invariably "no".
The most passionate flamers are locals who grew up eating at a particular restaurant, delivering their judgments about all of the others as if their opinions carry the weight of the ages, and launching verbal tirades against those of different dim sum faiths. It's difficult, then, for a dim sum newcomer in Orange County to gauge the veracity of any of the statements and decide which dim sum restaurant to visit. This is why I chose to start my Dim Sum Series. As a relatively recent arrival to Orange County, I'm impartial when it comes to local dim sum restaurants. I don't have any favorites. I just want to give my readers enough information to make an informed decision when choosing a dim sum dining location. Take everything I say with a dab of chili oil. I'm just a guy who likes food. Ultimately, the best way to decide if a restaurant is worth eating at is to try it yourself.
The reigning king of Irvine's dim sum establishments, China Garden is an iconic building that exudes a sense of permanence in the otherwise transitory restaurant world. For over ten years, it has survived rising gas prices, seasonal and economic slumps, and even a fire that closed the restaurant down for a time.
Despite these hardships, China Garden has continued to serve authentic and delicious Cantonese cuisine at highly competitive prices. In any discussion about Orange County dim sum, China Garden will inevitably be mentioned as a must-try. It's no wonder, then, that this Irvine eatery is beloved by locals and local food bloggers alike, including Professor Salt, Rasa Malaysia, and Elmomonster.
On weekends, the dining area resembles a battlefield, as crowds fill the restaurant to capacity and spill out onto the front lawn. Families just out from church or Chinese school, bleary eyed college students looking for something to take the edge off of their hangovers, and the occasional bemused Westerner, all gather seeking their dim sum fix. Although wait times for a table can exceed an hour, China Garden's popularity is unaffected.
La You (Chili Oil, Chinese red gold.)
During my three visits for this review, I discovered that the best time to go for weekend dim sum is at 10:00am, when the restaurant opens. With luck, you'll beat the after church/Chinese school rush. Even then, you may find yourself waiting if there are enough early birds ahead of you.
The service at China Garden is brusque, but efficient. Flagging down a waiter is easy. They usually respond to requests with alacrity. The numerous dim sum carts make complete circuits of the dining area frequently, although the cart ladies are often gruff and intimidating, and will try to sell you everything they're carrying. There are worse fates than a table full of dim sum, I suppose.
Unlike many of the dim sum restaurants I've sampled during this series, the fried items at China Garden are surprisingly good. Take this Jiao Yen You Yu (Fried Pepper Squid), for example. While the batter was a little thick for my taste, none of the pieces felt soaked in grease. The squid was tender and well seasoned with the peppers and salt. The browned garlic bits were so addictive they should have been banned. Each one was a tiny explosion of caramelized flavor that made my taste buds shimmy like the grass skirt on a Hawaiian hula girl's hips. All I wanted was a bowl of rice and a big spoon.
The Yu Jue (Fried Taro Cakes) were excellent. The honeycombed taro batter was light and airy, melting away on my tongue.
The scallop embedded in each piece was perfectly cooked, while the minced pork filling added the right amount of saltiness to season the otherwise bland ingredients.
However, the real draws of any dim sum establishment are its steamed items. Here, China Garden really shines, flawlessly executing the complex flavors of traditional Cantonese dim sum. Take the always popular Xia Jiao (Shrimp Dumplings). With their resilient skins and juicy shrimp fillings, China Garden's Xia Jiao are chewy parcels of crustacean delight. Bubba Gump, eat your heart out.
For those looking for a different take on an old favorite, the Jiu Huang Xia Jiao (Shrimp and Green Onion Dumplings) kick it up a notch with the pungent aroma of sautéed green onions and a phalanx of shrimp soldiers ready to stop up your mouth and turn back the Persian army. Ho!
Then there are the Yu Zi Shao Mai (Roe-topped Meatball Dumplings), the yang to the Xia Jiao's yin. Dense, meaty, and speckled with fish eggs, each pork and mushroom meatball is a hefty mouthful of bold flavor.
The god-king of the steamed dumplings are the Xiao Long Bao (Little Steamer Dumplings); each with a meaty nucleus bobbing in rich gelatin, barely restrained by a thin membrane.
Where the dim sum really gets interesting is with the specialty items. China Garden has a large and varied menu containing a number of popular favorites, like this Luo Buo Gao (Savory Turnip Cake). Slices of steamed rice flour cake containing shredded turnip and dried shrimp are pan fried to a crispy finish for a wonderful combination of textures and flavors.
You can't have dim sum without ordering Cha Shao Bao (Baked BBQ Pork Buns) at least once. With their sweet pork filling encased in an airy, brioche-like bread, these sticky buns are popular with diners of all ages.
The He Fen (Rice Noodle Sheets) are a familiar comfort food in both Chinese and Vietnamese cuisine. Rice flour batter is spread over a heated metal plate and steamed into thin sheets, then used to wrap either shrimp or thinly sliced beef and betal leaves. This version contains beef and is served with a sweetened soy sauce.
Pi Dan Shou Rou Zhou (Rice Porridge with Preserved Egg and Pork) is a taste I acquired from my mother. A gently stewed porridge made with chicken stock is seasoned with shreds of lean pork, cilantro, and minced pieces of "Thousand year egg". The black, earthy eggs aren't really from a thousand years ago. Rather, they're preserved in clay, which is spiked with lime, salt, and ash. The corrosive minerals "cook" the egg and give it its unique flavor. The subtle rice porridge is the perfect vehicle for spreading the unique flavor of the egg, punctuated by pork and cilantro, throughout your mouth.
My frequent accomplice in food adventuring, Elonweis, is the one who got me addicted to Xian Zhu Juan (Bean Curd Skin Roll). Seasoned pork, shrimp, mushrooms, and bamboo shoots are rolled up in bean curd skin, deep fried, and then steamed with a savory brown sauce. While Elonweis's mother makes the best Xian Zhu Juan I've ever tried, her brother, Alphanarf, and I both find China Garden's an acceptable substitute, much like the sickly sweet rush of methadone is an acceptable substitute for crack. It stops the cravings, if only for a little while. Thank you, Trainspotting.
The Stewed Tripe is a revelation. A cow has four different stomachs, each with its own unique texture. This dish lets you enjoy every type, all enveloped in a sweet and complex red sauce. Try as we might, Alphanarf and I weren't able to decipher all of the ingredients. I'd bet money Chinese red vinegar was involved, though.
China Garden - A sure-fire crowd pleaser. Their flavors are consistent and authentic. Definitely a must-try place for dim sum.
Bill (just dim sum ranges)
A Items - 2.25
B Items - 3.25
C Items - 4.24
D Items - 5.25
E Items - 6.25
Flavor: A+ (averaged over three visits)
Ambience: B
Service: B
ROI: A+
Overall: A-
Irvine China Garden
14825 Jeffrey Rd
Irvine, CA 92618
1-949-653-9988
Read more China Garden reviews from my food blogger friends.
8/20/2007
Frenzy Sushi (Vegetarian Omakase) - Costa Mesa, CA [Eating]
(Pictures for this review taken with my Canon Rebel XTi.
Dedicated to the moderators in the "Chowhound Team".)
Here's a shout-out to my two new friends, Gene and Nami, who managed to spot me having dinner at Frenzy Sushi. I never thought that I'd be considered a "celebrity sighting". Nami, thank you so much for being a fan and loyal reader. I'm very flattered. Please keep coming back!
Longstanding visitors to this blog will, at this point, undoubtedly be aware of my love for Frenzy Sushi, my watering hole of choice for raw fish goodness. I'm so passionate about the food at this fine restaurant that I managed to get myself kicked off of Chowhound defending my right to post about it. Although I wasn't friends with Chef John Arteaga during the Chowhound debacle, we've become friends since then though a shared love of food.
So, when Meridius Chick, my "other little sister", wanted vegetarian sushi for her graduation present, there was really only one place for us to go. Meridius Chick is also a big fan of Frenzy Sushi. As a vegetarian, it's hard for her to find regular restaurants with interesting vegetarian items on their menus. At sushi bars, her options are often limited to Kappa Maki (Cucumber Rolls) and Tamago (Japanese Sweet Omelet). Chef John's inventiveness when it comes to preparing vegetarian dishes for her is a refreshing change of pace.
Since this was supposed to be a dinner celebrating her graduation from college, I phoned the restaurant ahead of time to ask for vegetarian omakase. Chef John didn't disappoint. He started us off with Inari-zushi. Sweetened skins of fried tofu held a mix of sushi rice and pieces of marinated shitake mushrooms. The mild vinegar used in the rice, the meaty mushrooms, and the chewy tofu made for a delightfully flavorful package.
Next were orders of Futomaki. Contained in these hefty rolls were marinated mushrooms, spinach, radish pickles, tofu skin, and sweetened Japanese omelet. The crunchiness of the pickles did a great job offsetting the soft egg and more resilient mushroom. Futomaki were my favorite rolls as a child, and they're often a great way of breaking in sushi novices who aren't ready to eat raw fish.
To help clear our palates before moving us on to the cooked items, Chef John served up portions of this sublime Hakusai, delicately salted and pickled Napa cabbage. Each piece had just the right amount of sourness from the fermentation process to reawaken our taste buds. The dusting of shichimi togarashi (Japanese chili pepper mix) on top provided an intriguing hint of spiciness to a dish already perfect in its simplicity.
Our first cooked dish was Age-nasu. Pieces of Japanese eggplant had been skillfully scored and marinated in a blend of miso, sake, and other seasonings. The eggplant was then deep fried and drizzled with a sauce made from reducing the leftover marinade. Next to the Hakusai, the Age-nasu was Meridius Chick's favorite dish of the evening. Each morsel of eggplant had crispy, flakey skin which broke apart to release a deliciously light interior. The miso glaze added a complex sweetness that spread through the mouth with each bite, and enhanced the natural flavors of the eggplant.
To contrast with the Age-nasu, Chef John served a Tofu Salad consisting of pan-seared fingers of tofu, blanched green beans, and thinly sliced cucumber tossed in one of his signature dressings. The firm texture of the tofu played well with the cool crunch of the celery and sweet meatiness of the green beans. Toasted sesame seeds brought a rich nuttiness to the party. I'm definitely ordering this dish again.
Chef John's knockout punch for the evening, as far as I was concerned, was his Sweet and Sour Agedashi Tofu. Classic Agedashi Tofu consists of cubes of battered and deep fried tofu served in a seasoning made from bonito broth and soy sauce. Since bonito is dried skipjack tuna, Chef John made the dish vegetarian by replacing the standard broth with a sweet and sour sauce containing onions, pineapple, and bell peppers.
It was marvelous. The fried tofu had a delicate, ricotta-like interior that was a perfect match for the crunchy exterior. The gentle sweet and sour sauce was enhanced by the natural sweetness and sourness of the vegetables. This style of sweet and sour sauce is a Japanese adaptation of a traditional Chinese preparation. By fusing it with a classic Japanese dish, Chef John created something remarkable.
The next dish was somewhat controversial. The Tofu Lettuce Wraps consisted of a strip of deep fried tofu, Japanese pickles, and sushi rice drizzled with a creamy sauce and rolled up in lettuce leaves. I enjoyed my wrap very much, finding the lettuce leaves refreshing, and loving the richness the sauce and tofu imparted on the rice. Meridius Chick felt the wraps were too heavy, with both the fried tofu and creamy dressing. She also didn't think there was enough contrast between textures in the filling. This one might be a matter a personal preference.
Our rice course was something for the truly adventurous. Knowing how fond I am of natto (fermented soybeans), and after hearing that Meridius Chick was willing to try it, Chef John prepared bowls of Natto-don for the two of us. On top of a bed of rice, he laid seasoned natto, okra, grated yamaimo (mountain yam), the yolk of a quail egg, minced shiso (beefsteak tomato leaf), and shredded nori (algae sheets). It was a homey bowl of mucilaginous delight. The earthy beat of the natto, the smooth richness of the quail egg, throbbing bass line from the yamaimo, the tinkling chimes from the shiso, and the percussive explosions from the okra played against my tongue with each gooey mouthful. Meridius Chick did me proud by eating most of her bowl and liking it, although the quail egg just wasn't her cup of tea.
To finish us off, I asked for a pair of fried ice creams. The first was a Deep Fried Green Tea Ice Cream. As always, the mix between the hot, crunchy exterior and frosty, oozing interior were delightful. The grassy hints of green tea in the ice cream really showed through.
The second was a Deep Fried Red Bean Ice Cream. The sweetened azuki beans didn't shine through as much as the green tea, but Meridius Chick really liked this one. A sweet end to a sweet evening.
Congratulations on graduating from UC Irvine, Meridius Chick! I love ya, girl. I know you'll do us all proud in the Marines. Stay safe and Semper Fi!
Frenzy Sushi (Vegetarian Omakase) - If you're a vegetarian who likes to eat sushi, or have sushi-loving vegetarian friends, Frenzy will take good care of you. Just let the chefs know what your dining preferences are or call ahead and ask Chef John for the vegetarian omakase.
Since Chef John and I are friends, it would be improper for me to rate Frenzy using my standard scale, as I'm now a biased party. As such, I'll reiterate the overall score of A+ from my original review. Please don't take my word for it. Hop on in and see for yourselves.
Overall: A+
Frenzy Sushi
369 E 17th St, #17
Costa Mesa, CA 92627
1-949-646-1333
http://www.frenzysushi.com
To read my original, meat-loaded review of Frenzy Sushi, click here.
Dedicated to the moderators in the "Chowhound Team".)
Here's a shout-out to my two new friends, Gene and Nami, who managed to spot me having dinner at Frenzy Sushi. I never thought that I'd be considered a "celebrity sighting". Nami, thank you so much for being a fan and loyal reader. I'm very flattered. Please keep coming back!
Longstanding visitors to this blog will, at this point, undoubtedly be aware of my love for Frenzy Sushi, my watering hole of choice for raw fish goodness. I'm so passionate about the food at this fine restaurant that I managed to get myself kicked off of Chowhound defending my right to post about it. Although I wasn't friends with Chef John Arteaga during the Chowhound debacle, we've become friends since then though a shared love of food.
So, when Meridius Chick, my "other little sister", wanted vegetarian sushi for her graduation present, there was really only one place for us to go. Meridius Chick is also a big fan of Frenzy Sushi. As a vegetarian, it's hard for her to find regular restaurants with interesting vegetarian items on their menus. At sushi bars, her options are often limited to Kappa Maki (Cucumber Rolls) and Tamago (Japanese Sweet Omelet). Chef John's inventiveness when it comes to preparing vegetarian dishes for her is a refreshing change of pace.
Since this was supposed to be a dinner celebrating her graduation from college, I phoned the restaurant ahead of time to ask for vegetarian omakase. Chef John didn't disappoint. He started us off with Inari-zushi. Sweetened skins of fried tofu held a mix of sushi rice and pieces of marinated shitake mushrooms. The mild vinegar used in the rice, the meaty mushrooms, and the chewy tofu made for a delightfully flavorful package.
Next were orders of Futomaki. Contained in these hefty rolls were marinated mushrooms, spinach, radish pickles, tofu skin, and sweetened Japanese omelet. The crunchiness of the pickles did a great job offsetting the soft egg and more resilient mushroom. Futomaki were my favorite rolls as a child, and they're often a great way of breaking in sushi novices who aren't ready to eat raw fish.
To help clear our palates before moving us on to the cooked items, Chef John served up portions of this sublime Hakusai, delicately salted and pickled Napa cabbage. Each piece had just the right amount of sourness from the fermentation process to reawaken our taste buds. The dusting of shichimi togarashi (Japanese chili pepper mix) on top provided an intriguing hint of spiciness to a dish already perfect in its simplicity.
Our first cooked dish was Age-nasu. Pieces of Japanese eggplant had been skillfully scored and marinated in a blend of miso, sake, and other seasonings. The eggplant was then deep fried and drizzled with a sauce made from reducing the leftover marinade. Next to the Hakusai, the Age-nasu was Meridius Chick's favorite dish of the evening. Each morsel of eggplant had crispy, flakey skin which broke apart to release a deliciously light interior. The miso glaze added a complex sweetness that spread through the mouth with each bite, and enhanced the natural flavors of the eggplant.
To contrast with the Age-nasu, Chef John served a Tofu Salad consisting of pan-seared fingers of tofu, blanched green beans, and thinly sliced cucumber tossed in one of his signature dressings. The firm texture of the tofu played well with the cool crunch of the celery and sweet meatiness of the green beans. Toasted sesame seeds brought a rich nuttiness to the party. I'm definitely ordering this dish again.
Chef John's knockout punch for the evening, as far as I was concerned, was his Sweet and Sour Agedashi Tofu. Classic Agedashi Tofu consists of cubes of battered and deep fried tofu served in a seasoning made from bonito broth and soy sauce. Since bonito is dried skipjack tuna, Chef John made the dish vegetarian by replacing the standard broth with a sweet and sour sauce containing onions, pineapple, and bell peppers.
It was marvelous. The fried tofu had a delicate, ricotta-like interior that was a perfect match for the crunchy exterior. The gentle sweet and sour sauce was enhanced by the natural sweetness and sourness of the vegetables. This style of sweet and sour sauce is a Japanese adaptation of a traditional Chinese preparation. By fusing it with a classic Japanese dish, Chef John created something remarkable.
The next dish was somewhat controversial. The Tofu Lettuce Wraps consisted of a strip of deep fried tofu, Japanese pickles, and sushi rice drizzled with a creamy sauce and rolled up in lettuce leaves. I enjoyed my wrap very much, finding the lettuce leaves refreshing, and loving the richness the sauce and tofu imparted on the rice. Meridius Chick felt the wraps were too heavy, with both the fried tofu and creamy dressing. She also didn't think there was enough contrast between textures in the filling. This one might be a matter a personal preference.
Our rice course was something for the truly adventurous. Knowing how fond I am of natto (fermented soybeans), and after hearing that Meridius Chick was willing to try it, Chef John prepared bowls of Natto-don for the two of us. On top of a bed of rice, he laid seasoned natto, okra, grated yamaimo (mountain yam), the yolk of a quail egg, minced shiso (beefsteak tomato leaf), and shredded nori (algae sheets). It was a homey bowl of mucilaginous delight. The earthy beat of the natto, the smooth richness of the quail egg, throbbing bass line from the yamaimo, the tinkling chimes from the shiso, and the percussive explosions from the okra played against my tongue with each gooey mouthful. Meridius Chick did me proud by eating most of her bowl and liking it, although the quail egg just wasn't her cup of tea.
To finish us off, I asked for a pair of fried ice creams. The first was a Deep Fried Green Tea Ice Cream. As always, the mix between the hot, crunchy exterior and frosty, oozing interior were delightful. The grassy hints of green tea in the ice cream really showed through.
The second was a Deep Fried Red Bean Ice Cream. The sweetened azuki beans didn't shine through as much as the green tea, but Meridius Chick really liked this one. A sweet end to a sweet evening.
Congratulations on graduating from UC Irvine, Meridius Chick! I love ya, girl. I know you'll do us all proud in the Marines. Stay safe and Semper Fi!
Frenzy Sushi (Vegetarian Omakase) - If you're a vegetarian who likes to eat sushi, or have sushi-loving vegetarian friends, Frenzy will take good care of you. Just let the chefs know what your dining preferences are or call ahead and ask Chef John for the vegetarian omakase.
Since Chef John and I are friends, it would be improper for me to rate Frenzy using my standard scale, as I'm now a biased party. As such, I'll reiterate the overall score of A+ from my original review. Please don't take my word for it. Hop on in and see for yourselves.
Overall: A+
Frenzy Sushi
369 E 17th St, #17
Costa Mesa, CA 92627
1-949-646-1333
http://www.frenzysushi.com
To read my original, meat-loaded review of Frenzy Sushi, click here.