Ratatouille (Confit Byaldi)

Originally a rustic French summer dish of stewed vegetables, ratatouille is perfect for combating the autumn chill.

Soon Dubu Chigae (Korean Soft Tofu Stew)

There's something incredibly homey about a big, earthenware bowl filled with clams, tofu, beef, and broth.

Smoked Cha Shao (Chinese BBQ Pork)

Normally found hanging in the windows of Chinese delicatessens, cha shao is a marinated, slightly sweet, slow roasted pork with a deep crimson color and radiant finish.

Niko Niku Ramen Recipe

A meaty, braised pork ramen in soy broth that puts on smile on everyone's face.

Smoked Salmon Tarragon Pasta

A refreshing pasta of summer herbs and smoked salmon, perfect for staying cool during summer.

12/11/2013

Mag's Donut and Bakery - Irvine, CA

Look out Dominique Ansel. The California donut industry is coming for your cronut.



(A Croissant Donut from Mag's Donut and Bakery in Irvine.)

The morning began like any other before it. I woke up, performed my morning ablutions, and decided to stop by the neighbourhood donut shop on my way to work. As I had done thousands of times before, I stepped up to the counter to order a few dozen treats for my engineers. But, this morning was different.


(Mag's new Croissant Donut selection.)

Behind the familiar glass counter, nestled between the donut holes and the old fashioneds, was something I'd never expected to see. A hand-lettered sign advertising "Croissant Donuts", with two small trays of flaky, golden brown decadence stretching back underneath it. The first bite was a revelation, unlike any other dossant, doissant, or cro-not I'd ever tasted. A crisp outer crust that shattered into distinct layers, then melted into a toothsome chew which paired well with the maple icing and generous pieces of bacon. The interior was savoury, not greasy, with just a hint of buttery goodness. To paraphrase Marshall Eriksen, this was no mere cronut imitator. It felt like God, speaking to me through food.

I had to learn more. I had to share this confectionery masterpiece with the world.


(Mag's Donut and Bakery in Irvine.)

It was supposed to be a straightforward article. Feature a local mom & pop with an exciting new offering. Talk about their small batch, artisanal products, their focus on quality, and their attention to detail. I'd portray the patriarch as a master craftsman, driven by a passion for his work and struggling for relevance in a world that no longer appreciated him. I'd demonize celebrity chef Dominque Ansel as a lawsuit-happy elitist, always an easy target, and trumpet hip locavore ideals. The story practically wrote itself. The world, however, isn't so easily black and white.


(Chhen Yen presenting a freshly made Croissant Donut.)

I meet with Ning Yen, his wife, Chhen, and his son, Peter, in a small Irvine strip mall. With his fashionable sunglasses, Pillsbury corporate polo, and ever-ringing cell phone, Ning seems more like a successful businessman than the simple baker I'm expecting. Chhen, on the other hand, is a familiar sight. A shy woman with a beautiful smile and an impish sense of humor, she's served me at the counter of Mag's Donut and Bakery for over 14 years, frequently slipping an extra treat into my bag. She met Ning when they were in their teens. He was delivering oranges to Cambodia's capital of Phnom Penh from the family farm in Battambang, where Chhen needed to go. She often jokes to her children, "I hitched a ride with your dad and got stuck with him for life!"

Little do I realize that I'm in the presence of donut royalty.


(Ning Yen making a test batch of Croissant Donuts with a new filling.)

Ning Yen is revered as the "Godfather" of the California donut industry. A Chinese-Cambodian refugee, he never finished high school. "They shut the schools down in 1970," he explains to me, "during the Cambodian Civil War." After the family farm was seized in 1975 by the Khmer Rouge, Ning spent four-and-a-half years during the Cambodian Genocide as a forced laborer in the fields before escaping by foot to Thailand with Chhen. The couple ultimately made their way to the US in 1979. They were the lucky ones. Over 50% of Cambodia's 450,000 ethnic Chinese were executed by the Khmer Rouge on suspicion of being foreign subversive elements, part of larger ethnic and socioeconomic cleansings that ultimately claimed 1.7 million lives in four short years.


(Hungry customers line up for their morning pastries.)

A 21 year-old refugee with a limited education and few marketable skills, Ning benefited from an informal assistance network of Cambodian expats, which he later helped to expand dramatically. He was fortunate to secure a trainee position at a Winchell's Donut House in Santa Ana, and to gain the mentorship of fellow donut legend and Winchell's alumnus, Ted Ngoy. Chhen worked as a seamstress mending clothes. After five years of hard work, Ning and Chhen were able to purchase their own small donut shop in Irvine. The original Mag's Donut and Bakery has been in continuous operation since 1984.


(Freshly made and ready to serve.)

Ning's ambitions weren't limited to one shop. Building on the model taught to him by Ted Ngoy, he helped fellow Cambodian immigrants raise themselves up from poverty. He taught them the donut trade, which required little English or prior culinary experience, and assisted them in establishing their own shops. Ning's rising fortunes enabled him to invest in B&H Distributor, a donut equipment and ingredients provider. By 1995, Ning had assumed controlling interest in B&H, and operated a massive distribution empire supplying equipment and ingredients to over 2,400 Cambodian-owned donut bakeries throughout California, an estimated 80% of the total donut shops in the state. However, a combination of economic recession, the Krispy Kreme fad, and the rise of boutique coffee chains in the early 2000s ultimately gutted the market. He sold his shares of B&H Distributor in 2003.


(Chhen, Ning, Peter, and Sandy in the kitchen of Mag's Donut and Bakery.)

These days, Ning likes to keep things simple. He owns only one store, Mag's Donut and Bakery in Irvine, for which Chhen has taken over day-to-day operations. His son, Peter, and daughter, Moon, run Santa Ana Packaging for their father, which manufactures bakery-related packing materials and supplies distributors. If you order a box of donuts from any California donut bakery, chances are they'll be handed to you in a Santa Ana Packaging product. For Ning, it's all about interesting projects now. He consults for a number of companies in the baking and baking supply industry, leveraging his decades of experience to help them create appealing products.

Which brings us to his latest project - the Croissant Donut.


(Maple Bacon Croissant Donut from Mag's Donut and Bakery.)

Dominique Ansel's cronut is an engineering marvel. From a food science perspective, not only does it not make sense, it inconceivably violates a number of basic culinary rules. Frying requires the use of a protective barrier, such as batter or breading, to protect an interior ingredient. As the food cooks, the evaporating water vapor pushing outwards prevents fryer oil from rushing inwards. Without moist contents, or an impermeable membrane, fried food can easily become a grease-laden, artery-clogging disaster. With traditional yeast or cake donuts, a thin outer layer cooks instantly to form a protective barrier, while escaping water in the dough or batter prevents more oil from penetrating. If you've ever had a greasy donut, it was fried for too long, or at too low of a temperature, allowing the oil to seep in.


(Fresh batch of Croissant Donuts from Mag's Donut and Bakery.)

Croissant dough, with its numerous, alternating strata of gluten and fat, is far from ideal for frying. When baked, butter or margarine keeps the layers of dough separate and flakey as they set. Unfortunately, the fat necessary for giving a croissant its texture is also what ruins croissant dough when fried. Water and fat don't mix, which is why evaporating moisture during frying keeps fryer grease from entering the food. However, since croissant dough is relatively low in moisture, it runs out of fat-repelling water before being fully cooked. At that point, the butter or margarine riddling the dough, which mixes very nicely with other fats, will help draw more fryer oil in. The aspiring cronut imitator can too easily end up with a gut-busting crouton soaked in grease.


(Distinct and separate layers.)

To conquer this challenge, a baker needs to strike the perfect balance between water, gluten, and fat, creating a light and airy dough that doesn't run out of moisture before it's fully cooked, yet still separates into distinct, flakey layers. If you're a genius like Dominique Ansel, you sidestep the fat portion of this scientific conundrum and develop "a laminated dough which has been likened to a croissant." His cronuts, hand-produced in small batches, are justifiably famous; the epitome of the baker's art. However, not everyone can afford to hop a plane to New York City in order to wait hours in line for a chance to buy one.


(Hand-lettered sign for Croissant Donuts.)

Given the foodie buzz around cronuts, and Dominique Ansel's firm, some might say mad, resistance to manufacturing and distributing cronuts on a mass scale, is it any wonder that cronut imitators abound? Despite Ansel's egalitarian policies regarding cronut sales (he and his staff are renowned for denying celebrities preferential treatment), its exclusivity and luxuriousness inspires lust. From Houston supermarkets to Dunkin' Donuts in the Philippines and South Korea, you can find pastries inspired by Ansel's masterpiece springing up around the world. Even Pillsbury has gotten in on the act with an online recipe for "crescent donuts" using their pre-packaged grocery store dough. In spite of his best efforts to stay local, Ansel has found himself at the forefront of a global donut revolution.


(Ning preparing a test Croissant Donut with Sandy's new filling.)

In the small kitchen back at Mag's Donut and Bakery, Ning cuts a wedges from two fresh batches of Croissant Donuts. "Here, try these," he says as he hands them to me. "I want you to taste them plain."

"This one is crispier," I reply, pointing to the batch on the right. "But I like the other one better. It's doesn't taste as greasy and has a better mouthfeel."

The Yen family beams at me. I've selected yesterday's dough formula and confirmed their opinions of it. Next is a lemon custard created by Peter's girlfriend, Sandy. Ning spreads it on a split Croissant Donut, cuts it into pieces, and passes them around. As we sample, we discuss the flavor, sweetness, texture, and mouthfeel of the new filling candidate.


(Box of goodess.)

Since the beginning of November, Mag's Donut and Bakery has been ground zero for testing a new, commercially manufactured Croissant Donut dough. Ning is essentially consulting on the project pro bono for a friend, helping him to develop a product specifically formulated to make high quality Croissant Donuts for mass distribution to donut bakeries. Every day, the Yens try a new formulation of the dough, which has been altered to reflect feedback from the family and their customers. It's an exacting process, Ning explains. The dough is prepared, proofed, weighed, fried, and then weighed again to make sure as little oil as possible has been absorbed. The day's batch of Croissant Donuts are then dissected to check for oil penetration, crispiness of the crust, separation of the layers, and chew. After that, they're tested with various glazes and fillings to evaluate the overall effect.


(Apple Fritter from Mag's Donut and Bakery, a personal favorite.)

This level of precision is deeply ingrained in Ning. He is, despite his background as a baking industry tycoon, an experienced master craftsman in the fine art of donut making. Peter estimates that 85-90% of donut shops use manufactured doughs and mixes from one of several major distributors, including Mag's Donut and Bakery. Yet their donuts are, and have been for the fourteen years I've been a loyal customer, the best I've ever had. Accept no substitutes.


(Cake Donut with Sprinkles from Mag's Donut and Bakery in Irvine.)

Moist and delicate, their cake donuts provide just the right amount of resistance before yielding a fluffy interior that fills the mouth with inviting richness. I'll take them plain. They're that good. The yeast donuts are light, airy masterpieces with just the right amount of chewiness to balance a skillfully proportioned glaze. The sugar in their doughs and batters are strictly controlled to temper the sweetness from the icing. With decades of experience, Mag's produces superior products using the same equipment and ingredients as a number of their competitors. The key difference lies in Ning's deep understanding of the donut-making process, and in Chhen's natural culinary and artistic ability. Each of Chhen's croissant donuts are almost too pretty to eat.


(Chhen Yen assembling fresh Croissant Donuts for a customer.)

For the Yen family, fulfilling the need for a new product created by the cronut craze is a way to revitalize the flagging industry Ning once played such a major role in, and to elevate a blue-collar American birthright that's commonly viewed as a stodgy. "Donuts are a low traffic, high margin business," Ning tells me. But, the customers aren't coming like they used to. Not to Mag's, or to any other donut bakery. Already flagging before the Krispy Kreme collapse in 2004, the tastes of younger consumers have moved on to other fads. "I used to have three coffee brewer machines running," he continues, waving towards the only one left in the shop. "In the morning, non-stop. People would line up from here through the door. A lot of people go [to] Starbucks, you know. The younger generation. ... We never promoted the coffee before. We always promoted the donuts. So now, [our] coffee business, it's kind of slowed down. … " When I suggest partnering with a local artisan roaster, such as the Portola Coffee Lab, Ning shakes his head. "It doesn't matter. They just want the name. People want the name."


(A stunned Chubbypanda.com taster trying Mag's Croissant Donut.)

"My sister and I, we've always wanted to try out new things," Peter says. He sees the Croissant Donut as a way to make donut shops interesting again for his generation, and to reflect the change in Irvine's demographics over the past three decades. While predominantly French inspired, the Yens draw from Irvine's other culinary cultures when testing new flavors, including Asia and the Middle East. The strategy appears to be working. As word about Mag's new offering has spread, their clientele has expanded.

"My [regular] customers told [Chhen], ‘Wow. Right now [we feel like] we have to ... wear a tie and suit. ... Because right now [we see] a lot of people wearing ties and suits coming to your store,'" Ning adds.


(Students biting into the Croissant Donut for the first time.)

Office workers are not a core portion of Mag's client base. According to Chhen, "Usually it's teenagers, 18 [to] 21, UC Irvine [students]. But now, all the kids, they want it too." Children as young as 12 have started to stop by the store for the Croissant Donut, and the family has noticed a spike in office workers in their 20s and 30s stopping by Mag's in the evenings, something the Yens have never seen before.

"I think that's the market we want to hit," Peter concludes.


(Yeast Donut with Sugar.)

The original Mag's Donut and Bakery in Irvine - A 30 year-old piece of culinary history and an Irvine institution. This is not your ordinary donut shop. Come for the Croissant Donuts if you must, but try their coffee and some of their other expertly crafted offerings. Sample a piece of donut history.

The Irvine location is the only one offering Ning Yen's croissant donut. The Mag's Donut and Bakery locations in Newport Beach and Costa Mesa are owned by Ning's friend, Chong Yam, and Chong's niece. Ning helped Chong set up the bakeries when he was running B&H Distributor.

Bill:

Croissant Donut - 2.75
Filled Croissant Donut - 3.25
Apple Fritter - 1.35
Cake Donut - 0.95
Yeast Donut - 0.95

Flavor: A+
Ambience: B
Service: A
ROI: A

Mag's Donut and Bakery
18066 Culver Dr
Irvine, CA 92612
1-949-786-1955
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Mags-Donut-Bakery/100860656625261

(This article is dedicated to the Yen family. Many thanks to Ning, Chhen, Peter, Moon, and Sun for their participation and assistance. Additional thanks to Sandy Ho.

Pictures for the bakery review taken with my Canon Rebel XTi and iPhone 4s.)

11/07/2013

Comikaze - Should You Go? - Los Angeles, CA

(Been hard at work on the new layout for Chubbypanda.com. There's still a lot of work to be done. However, I've decided to start publishing again, even with a buggy site, to get my regular rhythm back up. It's been at least two years since my last post, so I've got a lot of work to do and a lot of backlog to work through.)


(Raven and Nightwing from the Teen Titans. Full slideshow available below.)

A young man scowls intently at me, his arms straining as he holds a bow at full draw. Only the bottom half of his gaunt face is visible below his shadowed hood. To his right, a barely dressed bunny boy in sunglasses, short shorts, and not much else gyrates in time to the music playing from a portable sound system. His ears flap in time to the beat as he performs his best Michael Flatley impersonation. A squad of Ghostbusters race past on their way to fight Gozer.

Is this madness?

No. This is Stan Lee’s Comikaze.


(The Green Arrow.)

A young upstart just finishing its third year, Comikaze can easily be dismissed as Los Angeles’ version of a poor man’s San Diego Comic-con (SDCC), a characterization Comikaze CEO Regina Carpinelli actively embraces. Carpinelli and her siblings founded Comikaze in 2011, after being unable to register for tickets through SDCC’s unforgiving online registration process (which sold out in a mere 93 minutes this year).

“It’s been our family tradition for nearly 20 years — and I’m the only girl — that the one thing we all agree on is we all loved San Diego Comic-Con," Carpinelli said. “A couple of years ago, when they had their online ticket process change, we couldn’t get tickets. We were terribly bummed…. We thought, ‘There needs to be a show that everyone can get into, that everyone can afford, that is totally awesome.’ We put our heart and soul into creating this geek smorgasbord."
(Source: Los Angeles Times)

True to its history, Comikaze’s operators have worked to keep admission fees low, encouraging families, children, and a carnival-like atmosphere.


(Boba Life Star Wars style.)

Through a series of smart moves, including partnerships with comics legend Stan Lee and camp movie icon Elvira: Mistress of the Dark, Comikaze has succeeded beyond the expectations of its founders. In three short years, the convention has almost doubled its attendance, with an estimated 50,000+ visitors (gotta be turnstile from what I saw) this year. Compared to Anime Expo (AX), a similar Los Angeles event billed as the largest anime and manga convention in North America, Comikaze’s growth has been nothing short of phenomenal.


(Local anime cosplayers who attend both Anime Expo and Comikaze.)

In operation since 1992 and held in the same location just a few months before Comikaze, AX targets an audience with similar interests and demographics. However, after twenty-one years, AX has reached a “mere" 61,000 unique and 161,000 turnstile attendees. Comikaze, on the other hand, has already reached a third of that total. If Comikaze continues at its current pace, it may easily reach AX’s 21-year mark in half the time.


(Raphael from the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles.)

Comikaze’s true goal and ultimate rival is San Diego’s Comic-con, which has had to cap its number of yearly unique visitors at 130,000 due to size limitations. As Stan Lee points out, Los Angeles is the international epicenter of the visual and motion picture media industries. It’s uniquely placed both to host a convention of this type and to attract the vast spectrum of major properties and independent visual media creators needed to make such an event successful. Comikaze’s mission of promoting comic book and pop culture is a logical and inevitable extension of the city’s dominance of the global entertainment industry.


(Bumblebee from the Transformers movie franchise.)

However, none of this addresses the most basic of questions. Is Comikaze worth going to? In a nutshell? Yes. Yes it is.

I have seen things, my friends, both wondrous and terrible.


(Full slideshow.)

Stan Lee’s Comikaze - Regardless of whether you’re a basement-dwelling, mouth-breathing, hardcore comic book fan, a regular person who just liked cartoons as a kid, or somewhere on the spectrum in between, Comikaze has something for you. Equal parts whimsy and insanity, you’ll find yourself regressing to a happier, simpler time when the good guys beat the bad guys (mostly) and life’s problems could be solved in 30 minutes or 15 pages. Enjoy the talented cosplayers, the independent artists and publishers, the friendly B-list celebs (and their crazily priced photo ops), and the absolutely stunning plethora of toys, books, and collectibles to buy. Just remember, when someone asks if you’re a god, you say, "Yes!"


Stan Lee's Comikaze at the Los Angeles Convention Center
1201 S Figueroa St.
Los Angeles, CA 90015
1-213-741-1151
http://comikazeexpo.com/

(Pictures for this post were taken with my Apple iPhone 4s.)

9/10/2011

The Sunny Side Cafe, a choka (長歌) - Berkeley, CA

(Pictures for this restaurant review taken with my Apple iPhone 3Gs.

For fun, I wrote this restaurant review of the Sunny Side Cafe as a choka (長歌). See the section below the review for more details.)


Up at 6:00am,
Sleep-fogged mind barely working.
Strange bed, no wife - Huh?
Disorientation and
confusion. Panic.
Relief when I realize
that I'm on a business trip.



Running for the BART.
Caffeine and adrenaline.
surging through my veins.
This irritation is too
familiar to me.
A nostalgia that I'd
rather do without.



Hello Berkeley,
I AM IN YOU!!! At some point,
this meme will get old.
But, that day is not today.
Sorry, Twitter friends.
Thanks for putting up with my
abuse of the CAPSLOCK key.



Hungry. I have time
before I need to reach the
office. Breakfast calls!
I have no idea where to eat.
First, I follow Yelp.
Then, I follow the students.
CAL is around the corner.



Sunny Side Cafe.
Navigation achievement
unlocked for teh win!
Only 30 minutes left
until I need to
get my ass to a meeting.
I can has tasty fuds now?



Fried Egg Sandwiches!!!
To Go only? *whimper* Sadness...
Time for Plan B.
The Raspberry Hanger Steak
Benedict special
looks interesting. Maybe
scary. You only live once.



Waitress super nice.
Open kitchen with counter.
How do the chefs not
feel like they are on display?
Students, locals, and
academics everywhere.
A real neighborhood joint.



Benny dished up fast.
Cloud-like eggs on pedestals
of toasted muffins
and caramelized meat, wreathed
in a buttery
shroud of luxurious, rich
Hollandaise. Be still my heart.



Cut into the egg.
Anticipation becomes
disappointment. Yolk,
an overcooked hockey puck.
Does not coat other
ingredients on the plate.
Was the special a mistake?



Citrus in sauce adds
way too much acidity.
Steak is drowned out by
raspberry, overpowers.
Potatoes are nice.
Laced with rosemary, lemon.
Crispy and fluffy.





The Sunny Side Cafe - Service is awesome, the portions are big, and the food is a decent value for Berkeley. They probably overreached on the special. The flavors clashed, but the overall dish was still tasty. However, Eggs Benedict is supposed to be one of the Sunny Side Cafe's signature items and my order was only one the two line cooks were working on. In addition to the hard boiled eggs, the muffins were under toasted and soggy because the eggs weren't drained properly. I'm not sure that was their best effort.


Bill:

Raspberry Hanger Steak Benedict - 12.50


Flavor: C-
Ambience: A
Service: A
ROI: C

Overall: B


The Sunny Side Cafe
2136 Oxford St.
Berkeley, CA 94704
1-510-845-9900
Restaurant website


Original Location:

1499 Solano Ave.
Albany, CA 94706
1-510-527-5383


What is a Choka (長歌)?



A choka is a form of waka (和歌) or Japanese poetry. Like the more commonly known haiku, choka are composed lines with 5 or 7 syllables (onji) arranged in a pattern. Each stanza has two couplets with a first line of 5 onji and a second line of 7 onji. The stanza is completed with a katuata of three lines. The first line in the katuata must be 5 onji and the second line must be 7. However the third line can be either 5 or 7 onji. So, each seven line stanza of a choka can have a series of 5-7-5-7-5-7-5 onji, or a series of 5-7-5-7-5-7-7 onji.

For example, this stanza from my choka is in the 5-7-5-7-5-7-7 onji pattern.

Sunny Side Cafe. - 5 onji
Navigation achievement - 7 onji
unlocked for teh win! - 5 onji
Only 30 minutes left - 7 onji
until I need to - 5 onji
get my ass to a meeting. - 7 onji
I can has tasty fuds now? - 7 onji

This stanza in the choka is in the 5-7-5-7-5-7-5 onji pattern.

Citrus in sauce adds - 5 onji
way too much acidity. - 7 onji
Steak is drowned out by - 5 onji
raspberry, overpowers. - 7 onji
Potatoes are nice. - 5 onji
Laced with rosemary, lemon. - 7 onji
Crispy and fluffy. - 5 onji

Cat's the poet, not me. However, I think choka are a lot of fun, even if you end up looking a bit silly counting out syllables on your fingers. I cheated a bit and used How Many Syllables.com. There's also a project called Choka On It dedicated to writing the world's longest choka by crowdsourcing it. Try contributing a couplet!

A real waka expert would probably have a field day with my choka, to which I reply with this haiku:
You pretentious prick.
Giving you the finger while
thunder roars outside.

11/08/2010

Takoyaki Tanota (たこ焼き たのた) - Costa Mesa, CA

(Pictures for this review taken with my Motorola Droid.)

With his shaggy hair tucked into a black baseball cap, he looks like a worn out roadie as he hunches over the sizzling hot griddle. A skilled flick of an oil-soaked cloth cleans each indentation, brushing a glistening layer over the ebony surface. Then, a thin, creamy batter is ladled on in a explosion of savory steam, filling the trays to the brim.



Large chunks of tender, stewed octopus are added next, unerringly dropped into the starch-shrouded wells and blanketed in a fragrant rain of thinly sliced green onions, fried tempura crisps, and pickled ginger. He waits patiently as the mixture thickens and puffs... then bursts back into motion, hands a blur as he criss-crosses the tray with a pointed metal skewer, neatly dividing each mound into squares.



A few deft twists, and each pallid serving is magically transformed into a golden orb of goodness. Another short wait as the takoyaki set up before they're nonchalantly flipped from the griddle into waiting boxes to cool.

Streams of Japanese mayonnaise and tart sauce, a dusting of seaweed powder, more sliced green onions, and the cooking is finally over. But not, alas, the waiting.



Inside each glorious sphere is a molten tide of mouth-searing custard waiting to gush forth in a tongue-blistering torrent. It's a test of wills. How long can one resist the maddening aromas? How long before the urge to satisfy lust overwhelms caution and rational thought? Unfortunately for me, it's never long enough...




Takoyaki Tanota - Ow! Mmmm...


Bill:

4 pieces - 3.00
6 pieces - 4.00
8 pieces - 5.00

Flavor: A
Ambience: A
Service: A
ROI: A

Overall: A


Takoyaki Tanota
(In front of Marukai most weekends)
2975 Harbor Blvd
Costa Mesa, CA 92626
Takoyaki Tanota website

Their event schedule can be found here.

They also have a food truck that cruises Los Angeles. Follow them on Twitter!

10/10/2010

Valhalla Table - Costa Mesa, CA [CLOSED]

(Pictures for this review taken with my Canon PowerShot SD800is.

This article is dedicated to Kelly von Hemert of Galley Girl for her friendly and persistent nagging. She's in your kitchen and my head!!!

Edit 08/24/2013: Valhalla Table has closed.)




Valhalla - The Hall of the Slain. It’s the final resting place of the Einherjar, heroes felled in glorious combat and selected by Odin the All-Father to serve in his personal guard. Raftered using spears and thatched with golden shields, it was said to always have room, food, and drink sufficient for all within it. Only warriors brave of spirit and whole of body could reside there, feasting and drinking as they waited for the final battle of Ragnarok.

It was basically a giant sausage fest.


(Duck, Bacon, & Jalapeno Sausage with Caramelized Onions)


When the eponymously named Valhalla Table opened at the CAMP, I couldn't wait to try it. After all, it was owned by Liv Karnaga & Chef Ehrline Karnaga, the same dynamic duo of sisters responsible for Layer Cake Bakery. They'd already given me my favorite Orange County source for deliciously decadent desserts. Their paean to homemade, organic, tubular delights surely wouldn't disappoint. Surely...



Valhalla Table is decorated in the minimalist industrial style that seems popular amongst eateries trying to be chic. Everything is composed of clean lines and muted tones. Black, grays, and white are dominant, giving the small space a cavernous feeling. It's very sterile.


(They sloshed a bit out of the bowl.)


When your food arrives, the splashes of color are a relief. Presentation, like the decor, is sparse. The flavors, on the other hand, are vivid and bold. Their piping hot Cream of Tomato soup begged for a grilled cheese sidekick. It enveloped the inside of my mouth in a soothing blanket of rich sweetness with just the right balance of acidity.



The Currywurst, on the other hand, arrived at the table an already dead, cold, and rapidly congealing mass of meat and fluids. The tomato-based curry sauce liberally slathered on top was reminiscent of store-bought Tikka Masala, completely overwhelming the lightly fried sausage pieces drowning underneath.



Belgian Style Potato Fries came highly recommended on Yelp and various food blogs (see below). The thickly hewn, twice-fried timbers of tuber were reminiscent of In-N-Out's "well-done" fries. They were simple, crunchy, and honest, although they could have used salt.


(Chicken & Apple Sausage)


Sausages run about $6-$7 dollars and are served simply grilled on a toasted roll. Each order comes with a choice of caramelized onions, sauerkraut, sweet peppers, salsa verde, or Indonesian sambal. Additional toppings run $1 extra each. No sides are included.

The sausages that I tried were both imaginative, but varied in their execution. The Chicken and Apple sausage was mild, surprisingly moist, and laced with gentle sweetness. The hefty amount of cinnamon used to spice the sausage, however, threw both Cat and I for a loop.

The Duck, Bacon, & Jalapeno Sausage (picture second from top) had a strong presence, but the ingredients clashed more than they complimented. The distinctive aromas of duck and bacon warred against each other like the Einherjar against Fenrir the wolf. The battle was intense and epic. Ultimately, like Fenrir, the bacon dominated by devouring all that stood in its path. The jalapeno added a nice bit of zing to the experience.




Valhalla Table - The concept is fun and the service is excellent. The quality of the ingredients and the care taken with their preparation really shines through. Unfortunately, the food could use some polish and balance, and the prices are on the high side.


Bill:

Cream of Tomato - 4.75
Currywurst - 5.50
Belgian Style Potato Fries - 3.50
Chicken & Apple Sausage - 6.00
Duck, Bacon, & Jalapeno Sausage - 7.00

Flavor: C+
Ambience: C-
Service: B
ROI: D

Overall: C


Valhalla Table
2981 Bristol Street (The CAMP)
Costa Mesa, CA 92626
1-714-549-2960
Valhalla Table website


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