Gen Kai Japanese Cuisine - Irvine, CA [Eating]

(Pictures for this review taken with my Canon PowerShot SD800is.

Read Elmomonster's review of Gen Kai here.)

Kitty-corner from Irvine Valley College lies a small, darkened strip mall mostly abandoned once the sun has set. Home to an eclectic gathering of businesses that draw little foot traffic and shutter their doors early, the lifeblood of the center's surprisingly numerous eateries is a thin trickle of car-less students desperate to get away from the campus cafeteria. With such anemic support, it's no wonder that this area of Irvine has a less than stellar reputation for food.



If there's one important piece of knowledge that I've gained from my gastronomic explorations, it's that great food is seldom where you expect to find it. Some of the best meals that I've ever had were ones that took me completely by surprise. Hunkered within the shadows of this sad strip mall, Gen Kai Japanese Cuisine, a restaurant for which I had nothing but low expectations, taught me this maxim yet again.


(Juuji)

In operation for close to 15 years, Gen Kai has a less than stellar reputation amongst Irvine's sushi lovers. During my decade in the city, what little I'd heard about the place had been enough to prevent me from ever setting foot within its walls. However, unbeknownst to myself and most other Irvine-ites, the restaurant has undergone a Renaissance in recent years; New remodeling, new staff, new menu, and, most importantly, new chefs.


(Lightly pickled cucumber - A signature palate cleanser.)

My first visit was entirely accidental. Cat was teaching a class at Irvine Valley College that didn't end until 10pm. I'd had a late night at the office and had less than half an hour to eat before I needed to pick her up. Like the desperate students drawn to it during the day, I ended up at the strip mall across the street in search of something fast and still open. Sushi at Gen Kai seemed to be my only choice.


(Edamame - Boiled and lightly salted soybeans in their pods.)

The meal that followed was so startling that I found myself emailing my friend and fellow OC Food Blogs contributor Elmomonster the following week to suggest we try Gen Kai again together. It's a mark of our mutual respect that he agreed, even after an unpleasant dining experience at Gen Kai some years earlier.


(Squid and Kelp Salad)

Serving us that night was Juuji (pictured near the top), a cherubic Japanese itamae who cheerfully informed me that both of Gen Kai's sushi chefs were named "Juuji". However, this chef was one who'd prepared my first delightful meal at Gen Kai. When Elmomonster decided to leave the ordering to me, I was confident in asking Juuji, "Omakase onegai-shimasu," which meant he would have free reign to serve us whatever he considered to be the best and freshest that day. I'd placed us entirely in the itamae's hands


(Tako-Su)

Flattered by our trust in him, Juuji was on a mission to impress. He succeeded admirably. Our first course was a pair of pickled seafood dishes to be shared between the two of us. The Tako-Su was a bold, mouth-puckering heap of sliced octopus with a sweetly tempered finish. The vivid orange color came from the marinade, which had also given each piece a meaty and tender texture. The dish's counterpart (pictured above) was a crunchy mix of squid, kelp, ginger, and bell peppers that brushed over our tongues like a gentle breeze.



A giant snail followed, poached and still in its own shell. Its twisted armor offered little protection as we wrested the chewy contents free and enjoyed their unctuous earthiness. The few drops of briny liquor left behind were eagerly sucked into our ravening maws.


(Serving for one.)

Juuji's strategy that night was evidently shock and awe, and he set out to overwhelm us with our next course. Reigning over a gorgeous plate of sashimi, its antennae still thrashing about, was the head of a giant prawn that had been whole and alive mere moments ago. Its gleaming black eyes surveyed a realm that glittered with the jewel-like flesh of the fallen. At Juuji's suggestion, I performed a Shinto prayer for the crustacean's spirit, waiting for it to depart the body before partaking.



Its freshness evident with each bite, the Amaebi (Sweet Shrimp) lived up to its name. I honored its passing by consuming every delectable morsel.


(Spanish Mackerel - center, Orange Clam - bottom)

Overshadowed by the centerpiece, yet equally sublime, wafer-thin slices of Aoyagi (Orange Clam) conveyed the aroma of the ocean. Strips of Aji (Spanish Mackerel) coated with grated ginger spread their rich oil throughout our mouths.



Finishing off the selection were two luxurious slices of Toro (Fatty Tuna). While not the highest grade of toro available, their quality was unmistakable. Each tender piece was redolent with the essence of the fish, melting away like the fine filet mignon.



Still reeling from the delicacies on our sashimi plates, we were unprepared for the appearance of our third course. With a mischievous grin, Juuji presented us each with a piece of Jellied Skate Wing. Served chilled and enveloped by golden aspic made from a combination of natural gelatin and the braising liquid used to cook it, the skate's finely textured meat required care to separate from its many bones.



The fourth course was a detour from the pure to the abstract. An imaginative roll of asparagus, salmon, shrimp tempura, avocado, radish sprouts, and soy paper was presented to us on plates that would not have been out of place in a gallery of modern art. The display was both beautiful and delicious.



At this point, we were both about ready to wave our napkins as flags. Our shock was nearly palpable when we were each served a hefty portion of Ankimo (Monkfish Liver), the foie gras of the sea. Despite the grated chili and daikon, sliced green onions, and ponzu sauce added to cut the practically pure fat, this dish nearly finished us. Yet, we were unable to stop ourselves from laboriously devouring each lump of lipid love.



The sixth course was the return on an old friend. After the sashimi course, the heads of our giant shrimp had been removed by the kitchen for further treatment. They returned to us now, twisted but still recognizable. A brief swim in a sizzling oil hot spring with only the scant protection of tempura batter had transformed each shrimp's once fearsome helm into a fragile facade of crispy goodness.

I attacked the spiky legs, feelers, and antennae first, carefully shattering each sharp shard between my teeth. Once denuded, the shrimp's now-helpless skull yielded to me its flavorful fat and brains as I devoured it whole. Not a single speck of chitin failed to make its way into my belly.



Sensing our flagging resolve, Juuji wisely chose to have us share our seventh course. I don't think we could have survived it otherwise. The amusingly named Japanese Pizza roll was a tempura fried cylinder of salmon, rice, and nori. Each slice was topped with sweetened mayonnaise and was broiled until the mayonnaise caramelized. Generous pinches of Tobiko (Flying Fish Roe) and sliced green onions were added, along with a drizzle of teriyaki sauce. It was decadent. It was obscene. It was damn tasty stuff.



Mercifully, our eighth course was a simple plate of Hakusai (Lightly Pickled Napa Cabbage) that served to cleanse our palates and sooth stomachs troubled by the heaviness of the last two dishes. Its mild bite was just what we needed to reawaken our senses.



Our ninth and final course was a shared sashimi plate of Shiro-Maguro Tataki (Water-Search Albacore) served with thinly sliced onion, grated daikon, and ponzu. The mild fish and tart ponzu left us refreshed and utterly satisfied.



(Green Tea Ice Cream Mochi - Gen Kai's Omakase includes dessert!)

Gen Kai Japanese Cuisine - In the restaurant world, it's rare when an existing, mediocre establishment is able to remake itself into something noteworthy. With the addition of Juuji to its staff, Gen Kai has managed to profoundly elevate the quality of both its food and customer experience. His mastery of traditional flavors and modern Californian sushi cuisine has made Gen Kai a contender in Orange County's highly competitive sushi market.


Bill (per person, including tax & tip):

Omakase - 53.10


Flavor: A+ (averaged over two visits)
Ambience: A
Service: A
ROI: A+

Overall: A


Gen Kai Japanese Cuisine
15435 Jeffrey Rd., #119
Irvine, CA 92618
1-949-786-3420


Read Elmomonster's review of our meal at Gen Kai here.

Japanese Kabocha Pumpkin Soup - [Cooking]

(Pictures for this recipe taken with my Canon Rebel XTi.

Ton-Ton's Journey: Vancouver 2007 will continue on Wednesday, December 12, 2007.)

Rain has finally come to Southern California, bringing with it the opportunity for me to engage in my favorite cold weather activity; sitting by the window in a comfy chair with a piping hot bowl of soup and a good book. Since I never know how long I have until the sun will be back, I prefer a simple recipe that doesn't take too long. I also like a thick, starchy soup that will help keep me warm as I enjoy the sound of falling rain drops.



Japanese Kabocha Pumpkin Soup is my hearty fare of choice for a grey day. Velvety and rich, it's an entire meal in and of itself. The base recipe is easy, requires few ingredients, and can be finished in less than 30 minutes. I include the skin, which contains most of the vitamins and essential nutrients. The pumpkin's own seeds are roasted to make a salty, crispy garnish. An optional blend of yuzu zest, yuzu juice, and extra virgin olive oil can be drizzled onto the soup to brighten the flavors and add sizzle.

Japanese Kabocha Pumpkin Soup

Gear:

1 Chinese cleaver
1 cutting board
1 large pot or sauté pan with fitted lid
1 mixing bowl
1 non-stick baking sheet (or regular baking sheet and parchment paper)
1 blender or food processor
1 fine mesh sieve (optional)


Ingredients:



1 Japanese Kabocha pumpkin
1 large yellow onion (Substitute with vegetable stock to make vegetarian.)
3 cups of chicken stock
1 cup of whole milk (Substitute with unflavored unsweetened soy milk to make vegan.)
1 tbsp of butter (Substitute with vegetable oil to make vegan. I like rice bran oil.)
1 tbsp of vegetable oil (For roasting the seeds.)
Kosher salt and cracked black pepper to taste
Juice and zest of one yuzu mixed with 1 tbsp of extra virgin olive oil (optional)


Prep work:

1. Wash the pumpkin, scrubbing it with a stiff brush or clean bristle pad. Do not use soap.


2. Using a heavy cleaver, split the pumpkin in half. Remove the stem and woody base. Reserve the seeds.


3. Chop the pumpkin into large, 1-inch chunks.


4. Peel the onion, halve, and thinly slice.

Instructions (Pumpkin Seed Garnish):

Place an oven rack in the middle of your oven. Heat the oven to 350°F.



Remove any large pulp chunks from the pumpkin seeds but save the pulp. Bring 4 cups of water to a boil over high heat. Add 3 tablespoons of Kosher salt, then stir in the seeds. Drop the heat to medium or medium-low and let simmer for around 10 minutes. Remove from heat and drain well.



Place a tablespoon of the reserved pulp in the mixing bowl and mash into a paste using your fingers or a fork. Add the seeds and vegetable oil. Mix well, then spread out onto the baking sheet in a single layer. Let the seeds group together to create abstract shapes. Place the baking sheet in the middle rack of your oven and roast the seeds for 20-30 minutes until golden and crisp. Remove the baking sheet from the oven and let cool to room temperature.


Instructions (Japanese Kabocha Pumpkin Soup):

Melt a tablespoon of butter (or vegetable oil) in your pot over medium heat until it shimmers.



Add the sliced onion and sauté until pale and translucent. Do not let the onions brown.



Turn the heat up to high and add both the chicken (or vegetable) stock and pumpkin chunks. The stock should just cover the surface of the pumpkin. You can add a water if necessary.

Let the stock come up to a boil, then drop the heat to medium or medium-low and simmer under the pumpkin is tender. Should take about 20-30 minutes.

Once the pumpkin is tender, puree the soup in your blender until smooth. For a silkier texture, pass the soup through a sieve. Return the soup to the pot, stir in the milk (or soy milk), and bring back up to a simmer over medium or medium-low heat. Add salt and pepper to taste. Let simmer for five more minutes, stirring frequently.



Serve the soup with a sheet of your roasted pumpkin seeds. A drizzle of the optional yuzu and olive oil mixture really helps brighten it up.

Serves 4-6.

Good eating!

Funashin - Fountain Valley, CA [Eating]

(Pictures for this review taken with my Canon PowerShot SD800is.

On a personal note, I used to frequent a restaurant called New Sushi House at 1969 Harbor in Costa Mesa, which was run by a friendly Chinese couple. They were suddenly replaced by a Taco Surf around July of 2004. If anyone knows what happened to them or where the chef is now, I'd very much appreciate a comment or email. He had some very innovative rolls, which I'd like to taste again.)

In Japan, a bento is a culinary jewel box containing a variety of succulent tidbits that delight the senses. They're a ubiquitous lunchtime treat that can be picked up from convenience stores, department stores, restaurants, and train stations. Mothers pack them for their children and husbands. Families take them to work, school, parks, or outdoor events. Every city has its own regional variations, epitomized by the famous ekiben (train station bentos). Yet in the States, the glorious plethora embodied by the bento is diminished, replaced by mix-n-match combination lunches that are pretenders to the name. A bento isn't a choice of teriyaki chicken, teriyaki beef, or a pork cutlet. It doesn't always come with a garden salad. You shouldn't be locked into a side of tempura, gyoza, or sashimi. A true bento is a cook's gift to you. It's an omakase of his or her favorite small dishes, packed together in an amount that won't make you gain ten pounds, at a cost that won't make you raid your child's college fund. A bento, in short, is a box of edible imagination.



Having recently embarked on a journey of home bento-making discovery, Elonweis wanted to sample some authentic restaurant bentos for inspiration. Unfortunately, everywhere we looked, we were faced with boring, insipid, unimaginative offerings. Through a series of misadventures, and with the help of my trusty GPS, we ended up at Funashin Japanese restaurant in Fountain Valley.



Conveniently located at the corner of the 405 freeway and Brookhurst, Funashin appeared to be typical of Japanese restaurants in the States. A small sushi bar spanned one side of the restaurant, separated from the dining area by shoji screens. The menu contained the usual suspects, teriyaki this, tempura that, and nods to udon and sukiyaki. However, two small lines near the top of its menu set Funashin apart; "Funashin Bento. Boxed lunch with a variety of Japanese delicacies." There was an A Set and a B Set. The difference? The B Set included a tempura assortment. Fingers crossed, we ordered the Funashin Bento B Set.



The standard bowls of Miso Shiru were brought out immediately. They passed the first test. We didn't go blind.



To take the edge off of our hunger while we waited, we ordered a few items from the sushi bar. The tender slices of Tako (octopus) were chewy, juicy, and redolent with the flavors of the briny deep. The sushi rice, on the other hand, was disturbingly salty.



Two ruddy pieces of Hamachi (yellowtail tuna), my gauge for freshness at any sushi bar, were mediocre at best. Once again, there was something terribly wrong with the seasoning of the sushi rice, which almost drowned out the fish.



The Uni (sea urchin genitalia), glistening cylinders of ice cold richness, tasted of egg yolks and the sea. Here, the large amount of salt used in the sushi rice served to enhance the strong flavor of the sea urchin, instead of clashing as it had with the more delicate yellowtail.



The Ninja Roll was a Soft Shell Crab Roll done on the cheap, containing mostly imitation crab with a little avocado and deep fried soft shell crab. I guess the soft shell crab was the "ninja", since it was well-hidden by the other ingredients. With only five pieces, definitely not worth its $9.50 asking price.



Disappointed with the sushi, Elonweis and I were more than ready for our bentos when they arrived. It was worth the wait. The selection, the sheer variety, these were the bentos we were looking for. They were type of bentos one might find in Japan, featuring the best small dishes the restaurant had to offer.



Going clockwise from the top, we found a number of simmered items, including bamboo shoots, kabocha pumpkin, taro, konnyaku, and fishcake. A piece of tamagoyaki, sweetened and custard-like Japanese omelet peeped out from next to a cup of seasoned burdock and carrot threads. A small mound of seaweed salad graced the front.

Everything was exquisite and perfectly flavored, particularly the dense kabocha, which melted and spread its gentle sweetness throughout my mouth. The konnyaku resisted slightly before breaking into shards that ricocheted off my mouth and tongue like a shattered super ball.



Next, a slab of salmon, austerely seasoned with salt and grilled, was perfect in its simplicity. A squirt of lemon added a bright accent to the rich meat. Behind the salmon, a crispy piece of tori kara-age, its deep color revealing the ginger and soy sauce marinade it had steeped in before taking a dip in hot oil.



Generous slices of gem-like maguro (tuna) and hamachi sashimi glowed in the lower right. The hamachi, which we'd already sampled, was average. However, the ruby red maguro was very fresh, releasing more and more of its rich flavor as we chewed.



The lower left side held a dazzling assortment of tempura, including shrimp, sweet potato, and kabocha. Most intriguing was a lurid yellow cylinder covered in a batter I'd never seen before. One bite revealed it to be surumi, with a crisp covering reminiscent of Corn Flakes or puffed rice. The tempura were very enjoyable, although a little too oily. Given the sheer amount of food in Funashin's bento, it was almost overkill. I could see why they offered an A Set sans tempura.



Above the tempura, what initially appeared to be a croquette drizzled with tonkatsu sauce turned out to be a whole scallop crusted with panko crumbs and deep fried. The soft texture of the scallop was a great contrast for its crunchy armor and tangy sauce. Behind it lurked another piece of tori kara-age.



Last but not least, a selection of tsukemono (Japanese pickles) were placed in the center to refresh the palate between items. They went very well with the rice.



After all, no meal is complete without rice. Gotta have the rice.


Funashin - The sushi is only so-so, but the bento makes it worth going to. That one dish alone is enough to make me a regular. The tempura in the B Set should be tried at least once. However, if you have a low tolerance for oily food, you might be better off getting the A Set. Stay away from the sushi bar.


Bill:

Hamachi - $4.00
Uni - Market Price
Tako - $3.50
Ninja Roll - $9.50
Funashin Bento B Set - $13.50


Flavor: B+
Ambience: A-
Service: A
ROI: B

Overall: A-


Funashin
18120 Brookhurst St, Ste 25
Fountain Valley, CA 92708
1-714-963-3484

Beard Papa's & MamMoth Bakery - Costa Mesa, CA [Supplying]

(Pictures for this review taken with my Canon PowerShot SD800is.)

Japanese grocery juggernaut Marukai has had problems keeping its food court full in the past. From the ill-fated Tampopo Ramen, vanished without a trace, to international ramen powerhouse Chabuton, which faded away after only one year, Marukai has been unable to compete with the larger and sexier food court offered by Mitsuwa, its only major competitor in Orange County. In yet another attempt to reverse its food court fortunes, Marukai has turned towards Beard Papa's cream puff bakery, one of the latest food fads sweeping the globe. Orange County residents rejoice! Now you can get your Beard Papa's fix without having to drive to LA. It's about time.



Following a formula that has already achieved great success at its Gardena location, Marukai has opened a Beard Papa's franchise in Costa Mesa and paired it with the highly popular MamMoth Bakery. Hopefully these two golden geese, which are sharing the same storefront, will manage to pull Marukai Costa Mesa out of the disastrous food court slump that has already cost it two ramen shops and a once highly successful L&L Hawaiian BBQ branch.



After a long day of errands and grocery shopping, Cat and I decided to stop by Beard Papa's for a snack. Much to my surprise, I discovered that they only had one type of cream puff available; the Original Vanilla. Disappointed, I got one to go.



Although I'd been hoping to try some of Beard Papa's more exciting flavors, such as Green Tea, Earl Grey Tea, and Pumpkin, the Original Vanilla was as satisfying as ever. The airy pate a choux encased a rich custard flecked with black vanilla seeds that coated my mouth and tongue. It's no wonder these creamy delights set off a huge cream puff craze in Singapore.



On the other hand, instead of Beard Papa's single offering, the cases MamMoth Bakery were filled with a variety of tasty baked goods. This small Japanese bakery chain is affiliated with Marukai, and many of its offerings are based on European cakes and breads adapted for Asian taste buds.



Since the bakery Cat and I usually buy our weekly bread at was closed for Labor Day weekend, I picked up a bag of Butter Rolls. With a very fluffy, yet chewy, crumb and hints of sweetness from the butter, these brioche-like rolls are a staple in the school lunch diet of every Japanese schoolchild. MamMoth's were similar to the rolls I remembered from my childhood.



Cat really likes the Asian buns made using the same dough as the Butter Rolls, particularly when filled with chocolate frosting. She picked up a Chocolate Horn for her lunch the next day.



She also snagged a Frank Roll, which contained half a frankfurter sliced lengthwise and topped with ketchup, mayonnaise, and a sprinkling of algae flakes. The bun tasted like a hot dog after a close encounter with some takoyaki.



We also wanted to pick up a little dessert. Undoubtedly spawned to serve the needs of health conscious Japanese schoolgirls, the Chocolate Butter Cake came in five bite-sized portions to a bag. Although the chocolate flavor was quite strong, the cakes were a little dry. They had a springy texture similar to genois, a classic French sponge cake.



The Butter Cake, which also came five to a bag, were moister and much more flavorful. They tasted a lot like Hostess Twinkies, except without the whipped cream and the feeling you were going to die of sugar or fat poisoning. A, dare I say, "healthier" dessert alternative.



MamMoth Bakery also offers a number of pastries, both savory and sweet, using croissant dough.



I'm a sucker for buttery, flakey goodness, so I selected a Ham and Cheese Croissant.



Much to my surprise, the cheese used was whipped cream cheese instead of the usual Swiss, American, or Cheddar. It wasn't bad. The croissant had the right balance between crisp crust and moist crumb. The filling worked, although I'm more used to ham and cream cheese on bagels.



I also got a delightfully wicked Curry Donut. Let's face it. Anything covered with panko crumbs and deep fried can't be good for me.



In this case, the yeast-risen, fried dough surrounded a mix of ground beef, onions, carrots, and Japanese curry sauce. The thick sauce, reminiscent of demiglace, flavored every delectable bite. With the crunch from the panko crumbs, it was like eating menchi katsu (breaded hamburger cutlet) with curry inside.



In addition to baked and fried breads, MamMoth Bakery had a cold case with sandwiches and puddings of various flavors. I'm a biiiig pudding fan, so I knew I'd have to try some of them. Well, all of them. Immediately.



First up was the Super Creamy Custard Pudding. The dense, vanilla flavored pudding was indeed super creamy, as promised. Surprisingly so, given how the Japanese abhor fatty foods. The ratio between the custard and the burnt sugar jelly at the bottom was also off. There wasn't enough bitter jelly to counter the intense richness of the custard. Pretty good, but not for those who are fans of lighter desserts.



The Super Creamy Green Tea Custard Pudding had a top layer of azuki beans, a middle layer of vanilla custard, and a bottom layer of green tea custard. Here, the grassy bitterness of the green tea helped to offset the richness of the custard, while the azuki beans added a sweet finish. This is my number one pudding pick from MamMoth Bakery.



The last pudding I sampled was the Mango Pudding, which was a strong, mango-flavored custard with a thin layer of mango jelly on top. The fresh mangos used in this dessert really showed through, both in taste and in the stringy mango bits I had to pick out of my teeth afterwards. Plus ten points for flavor, minus five points for mango fibers. Not a bad showing, although they should really strain their mango puree before adding it to the custard.


Beard Papa's - Only the Original Vanilla is available, but half a loaf is better than none. With the opening of its Costa Mesa branch, Orange County locals now have a convenient source for Beard Papa's delicious cream puffs. As a tip, please note that the cream puffs are best eaten within an hour or two of purchase. Any longer, and the pate a choux will absorb too much moisture from the custard and become soggy.


MamMoth Bakery - Tasty Japanese baked goods. The selection isn't vast, but it will get the job done. The branch in Marukai Costa Mesa doesn't bake the buns on site. Instead, they're shipped in from a separate kitchen facility. However, everything I tasted was fresh and delicious.


Beard Papa's
2975 Harbor Blvd.
Costa Mesa, CA 92626
1-714-751-8433 (Store number. Too new to have own line.)
Beard Papa's Website

Other locations:
Click here for the complete list.


MamMoth Bakery
2975 Harbor Blvd.
Costa Mesa, CA 92626
1-714-751-8433 (Store number. Too new to have its own line.)

Other locations:
Marukai Torrance and Marukai Gardena. Click here for the addresses.

Niko Niku Ramen (Niko Niku Ramen Series Part 4) - [Cooking]

(Pictures for this recipe taken with my Canon Rebel XTi.

Click here to read my complete Niko Niku Ramen series.)



Now that we've laid the groundwork for my Niko Niku Ramen, it's time to get down to business. To make this dish, we'll be using the results of the three other recipes in this series. What we'll get is a great bowl of noodles with a rich, soy-based broth, lots of meltingly tender braised pork, and delicious hard boiled eggs. This is ramen the way I like it.

Recipe for Niko Niku Ramen

Gear:

1 chef's knife, Santouku knife, or Chinese cleaver
1 cutting board
1 large saucepan (able to hold at least one quart of liquid)
1 6-quart stock pot
1 strainer or colander
1 ladle


Ingredients (Niko Niku Ramen):


(Spicy Chinese bamboo pickles.)

2-3 green onion tops
1/2 cup of spicy Chinese bamboo pickles (I prefer these over the traditional menma. You can get them in most Chinese markets.)
1/2-1 lbs of Japanese Cha Shu (recipe here)
2-3 hard boiled eggs (recipe here)
1 quart of Basic Ramen Stock (recipe here
1/2 cup of ramen soup base (cha shu braising liquid, recipe here)
2-3 servings of fresh ramen (Available from most Japanese or Chinese markets)
3 tbsp of salt
3 tbsp of vegetable oil
1 tbsp of hondashi (optional)
3 tbsp of shiro miso paste (optional)
3 tbsp of sesame paste (optional)


Prep work (Niko Niku Ramen):

To make the soup for our Niko Niku Ramen, place the Basic Ramen Stock in the saucepan and heat to just under a boil over medium or medium low heat. If the stock looks like it may come to a boil, drop the heat. Boiling will make the stock bitter and cause protein solids to froth on the surface.

Add the soup base to the stock and let the soup come back to almost a boil. Taste the soup and add additional soup base or salt if needed. You can also thin it out with a little water if you feel it's too thick. Remember that the soup will need to flavor a fair amount of noodle, so the flavor should be a little stronger than you might think.

At this point, you have the option of adding ONE of the three optional ingredients to the soup; hondashi, shiro miso paste, or sesame paste. Hondashi will add a marine richness to the soup. The shiro miso paste will make this a bowl of Niko Niku Miso Ramen. Mixing in the sesame paste will make Niko Niku Tan Tan Ramen. I wouldn't recommend more than one optional add-in.

Keep the soup just under a boil until ready to plate.



Fill the 6-quart stock pot 2/3 of the way. Place on the stove over high heat and bring to a roiling boil. Add the salt and oil. Let the water come back up to a roiling boil before adding your ramen.

Each ramen ball is enough for one serving. Let the ramen boil for the recommended time on the package. I tend to pull mine a little early, since I like my ramen al dente, but it's really a matter of personal preference.

As a side note, don't skimp when buying the ramen noodles. Despite all of our preparations leading up to this point, ramen is all about enjoying the unique texture and flavor of these Japanese noodles, which should be accentuated by the toppings.

Once the noodles are ready, pour into your strainer or colander, then rinse thoroughly under cold, running water until completely cool. Set aside in the colander to drain.



Slice or mince the green onion tops.



Slice the cha shu to your preferred thickness. Make sure the cha shu is fully chilled. It will make slicing easier. I like mine about 1/8 inch thick. You'll want 3-5 pieces per bowl.



Peel and halve the hard boiled eggs. You'll want 2 halves per bowl.


Instructions (Niko Niku Ramen):



Place a serving of noodles in mind on the bottom of each bowl. In the center, add a ball of bamboo pickles. Along one edge of the bowl, fan out your cha shu slices in a semi-circle. Place the two egg halves next to each other opposite the cha shu slices.



Ladle the near boiling soup gently into each bowl, trying not to disturb the toppings. The soup should come just over the edge of the cha shu. Add a pinch of sliced green onions on top of the bamboo pickles to garnish.



Serve with a squeeze bottle of more soup base in case you or your guests would like to adjust the flavor of the stock.



There you have it. My Niko Niku Ramen, which literally translates to "Smiley Meat Pulled Noodles". Cheerful little fellow, isn't he? I hope you guys enjoy the flavor of ramen Chubbypanda-style.



Makes 2-3 bowls.

Good eating!

Japanese Cha Shu (Niko Niku Ramen Series Part 2) - [Cooking]

(Pictures for this recipe taken with my Canon Rebel XTi.

Click here to read my complete Niko Niku Ramen series.)

Japanese Cha Shu is a braised pork dish that is a quintessential component of any bowl of ramen. Although it was inspired by Chinese Cha Shao, it has a completely different preparation. Chinese Cha Shao is a sweet, smoked barbecue pork commonly eaten with rice or used as a filling for steamed buns. Japanese Cha Shu is a savory, tender, meltingly soft pork that is thinly sliced and served in ramen.



My Japanese Cha Shu is strongly flavored, with a nice kick from the ginger and a sweet finish. It's a vital part of my Niko Niku Ramen. The process is somewhat long, but is relatively simple and the results are well worth the effort. You can also double or triple this recipe and save the extras in the freezer. However, if you don't have the time to follow this recipe, you can find pre-made versions in the deli sections of some Japanese grocery stores.

(To give credit where credit is due, I based part of my Japanese Cha Shu recipe on this one here. )

Recipe for Japanese Cha Shu

Gear:

1 chef's knife, Santouku knife, or Chinese cleaver
1 cutting board
1 large sauté pan with lid
1 wooden spoon or spatula
1 blender or food processor
2 1-gallon sealable Ziploc bags
1 sealable plastic container
Cotton cooking thread


Ingredients (Japanese Cha Shu):



1 lbs of pork top loin
1 clove of garlic
1-3 long green onions
1 1-inch piece of ginger
1/3 cup of Chinese rice wine
5 tbsp of soy sauce
5 tbsp of mirin
1 tbsp of sugar
1 tbsp of salt
1 tbsp of vegetable oil (preferably rice bran)
Water


Prep work (Japanese Cha Shu):


Peel and clean the garlic.

Separate the white and green portion of the green onion. Save the green tops for the ramen. Mince the white part.

Peel and julienne the ginger.



In a blender or food processor, blend together the garlic, ginger, green onion, rice wine, soy sauce, mirin, sugar, and salt. If you don't have a food processor, use the flat of your knife to bruise the ginger and green onion, and to smash the garlic. Then mix the marinade in a bowl.



Rinse the pork loin and pat dry with paper towels. Using the cotton thread, tie the loin up as you would a roast. This will keep the meat from falling apart while braising. (If enough readers leave comments asking me to, I'll post another article after this series on how to tie up roasts.)



Place the pork loin and marinade in a Ziploc bag. Seal the bag, making sure as little air remains inside as possible. Let the pork to marinate in your refrigerator for at least two hours. I recommend overnight, if possible.


Instructions (Japanese Cha Shu):



Remove the pork loin from the marinade and pat dry. Reserve the marinade.



Place the vegetable oil in your sauté pan and heat to high. Once the oil starts smoking, add the pork loin. Let it sear on each of its four sides for at least three minutes. The point is not to cook the meat, the point is to add color, flavor, and to toughen the outer edge so the meat holds together better while braising.



Deglaze the pan with a little water, then add enough water to come a third of the way up the side of the pork loin.



Add the reserved marinade, cover, and let the braising liquid come up to a boil. Drop the heat down to medium-low and let the pork simmer for two hours. Turn the meat after the first hour. The braising liquid should bubble gently. If the mixture appears to be boiling too furiously, drop the heat even more. If too much liquid evaporates, add a little more water. The water should be brought to a boil before it's added to the sauté pan.



The Japanese Cha Shu will be done once the juices run clear when the loin is pricked with a toothpick. Remove the pan from the heat. Remove the meat from the pan and let cool at room temperature for no more than an hour. Place the meat in a Ziploc bag and let cool completely in the refrigerator. Do not attempt to slice the meat until it has spent several hours in the fridge and hardened. If you attempt to slice it while warm, it will fall apart on you.



Skim any solids from the braising liquid. Let the liquid cool on the stove for no more than an hour. At this point you have two choices. You can strain the braising liquid or puree it. I prefer to puree it, since I feel the aromatics add a lot of flavor. Once strained or pureed, you'll have the soup base for my Niko Niku Ramen.

Store the soup base in a sealable container in your refrigerator for up to a week, or your freezer for up to three months. I like using this squeeze bottle for ease in dispensing.



Once the Japanese Cha Shu has completely chilled and hardened, it will be safe to slice. I prefer to slice only what I need for each bowl of ramen when preparing it and to store the rest unsliced.

In a tightly sealed Ziploc bag, the meat will last for up to a week in the refrigerator and up to three months in the freezer.

Each 1 lbs pork loin should make enough Japanese Cha Shu for 8-10 slices, which is enough for 2-3 bowls of ramen.

Tomorrow, we cover my recipe for Hard Boiled Eggs, another key ingredient in a good bowl of ramen.

Good eating!

Basic Ramen Stock (Niko Niku Ramen Series Part 1) - [Cooking]

(Pictures for this recipe taken with my Canon Rebel XTi.

Click here to read my complete Niko Niku Ramen series.)

For me, memories of summers as a youth are inextricably tied up with ramen. Real ramen, not those bricklike bundles of deep fried starch and MSG-laced seasoning packets. Ramen with freshly made noodles that had just the right amount of chew, swimming in an unctuous broth of porky goodness, frolicking with meltingly tender slices of braised pork and hard boiled eggs whose yolks had barely set. The type of ramen that spawned illicit trips to Japantown after a hard day's work at the bakery.


(Chubbypanda's Niko Niku Ramen.)

I developed my recipe for Niko Niku Ramen (Smiley Meat Ramen) because I wanted a ramen that catered to my specific tastes. Since making this ramen is composed of several major steps, I've split the recipe into four parts, which I'll be posting over this weekend. This first part covers my Basic Ramen Stock, which is the mother stock for all of the different types of ramen I make.

Recipe for Basic Ramen Stock

Gear:

1 chef's knife, Santouku knife, or Chinese cleaver
1 cutting board
1 6-quart stock pot with lid
1 large roasting pan
1 ladle
1 3-quart pot or mixing bowl
1 large strainer or colander (Needs to fit neatly above the 3-quart pot or mixing bowl.)
Cheesecloth (Enough to line colander or strainer.)
3 1-quart sealable plastic containers


Ingredients (Basic Ramen Stock):


1 cup of Chinese rice wine
2 medium onions
3-6 medium carrots
1 head of garlic
1-1/2 lbs of assorted bones, pork preferred (I save them in the freezer until I have enough.)
3 tbsp of vegetable oil (preferably Canola)


Prep work (Basic Ramen Stock):

If frozen, allow your bones to come up to room temperature.

Cut the head of garlic and the onion bulbs in half. Wash the carrots.

Place your oven rack in the middle setting and heat your oven to 350º F/175º C.


Instructions (Basic Ramen Stock):



Toss your carrots, onions, garlic, and bones in the vegetable oil and spread them out on the bottom of the roasting pan in an even later. Try to place the onions and garlic cut side up.

Roast in the oven at 350º F/175º C, until the bones and vegetables have browned. Some charring is fine, but remove the pan from the oven if anything is in danger of burning. Should take about an hour.



Place the bones and vegetables in an even layer along the bottom of the 6-quart stock pot. Deglaze the roasting pan with the rice wine and add the rice wine to the stock pot.



Add just enough water to cover the bones. Should be around or less than three quarts. Some of the vegetables may float. Don't worry about it. Do not season. That step comes during final ramen assembly.

Cover the pot and place on a stove burner set to high. Let the water come to a slight boil, then drop the heat to medium-low or low. The bubbles should be small and very slowly break the surface of the water.



Let the stock simmer on the stove for a minimum of three hours. I recommend at least eight hours. Personally, I like to let mine cook for around twelve hours over low heat. Do not lift the lid or stir until the allotted time has elapsed. The stock should be a rich brown color.



Once the stock is ready, turn off the heat.

Place your colander over your pot or mixing bowl and line it with cheesecloth. Ladle your stock and bones into the colander slowly, allowing the liquid to fully drain each time before adding the next ladle. Discard the cheesecloth and bones when done.



Allow the stock to cool for no more than one hour.



Divide the stock evenly amongst the three sealable containers and refrigerate. Sealed, the stock should keep for a week in the refrigerator or up to three months in the freezer.

Each container contains enough stock to make 2-3 bowls of ramen.

Tomorrow, we cover my recipe for Japanese Cha Shu (Braised Pork),

Good eating!

Frenzy Sushi (Vegetarian Omakase) - Costa Mesa, CA [Eating]

(Pictures for this review taken with my Canon Rebel XTi.

Dedicated to the moderators in the "Chowhound Team".)



Here's a shout-out to my two new friends, Gene and Nami, who managed to spot me having dinner at Frenzy Sushi. I never thought that I'd be considered a "celebrity sighting". Nami, thank you so much for being a fan and loyal reader. I'm very flattered. Please keep coming back!



Longstanding visitors to this blog will, at this point, undoubtedly be aware of my love for Frenzy Sushi, my watering hole of choice for raw fish goodness. I'm so passionate about the food at this fine restaurant that I managed to get myself kicked off of Chowhound defending my right to post about it. Although I wasn't friends with Chef John Arteaga during the Chowhound debacle, we've become friends since then though a shared love of food.



So, when Meridius Chick, my "other little sister", wanted vegetarian sushi for her graduation present, there was really only one place for us to go. Meridius Chick is also a big fan of Frenzy Sushi. As a vegetarian, it's hard for her to find regular restaurants with interesting vegetarian items on their menus. At sushi bars, her options are often limited to Kappa Maki (Cucumber Rolls) and Tamago (Japanese Sweet Omelet). Chef John's inventiveness when it comes to preparing vegetarian dishes for her is a refreshing change of pace.



Since this was supposed to be a dinner celebrating her graduation from college, I phoned the restaurant ahead of time to ask for vegetarian omakase. Chef John didn't disappoint. He started us off with Inari-zushi. Sweetened skins of fried tofu held a mix of sushi rice and pieces of marinated shitake mushrooms. The mild vinegar used in the rice, the meaty mushrooms, and the chewy tofu made for a delightfully flavorful package.



Next were orders of Futomaki. Contained in these hefty rolls were marinated mushrooms, spinach, radish pickles, tofu skin, and sweetened Japanese omelet. The crunchiness of the pickles did a great job offsetting the soft egg and more resilient mushroom. Futomaki were my favorite rolls as a child, and they're often a great way of breaking in sushi novices who aren't ready to eat raw fish.



To help clear our palates before moving us on to the cooked items, Chef John served up portions of this sublime Hakusai, delicately salted and pickled Napa cabbage. Each piece had just the right amount of sourness from the fermentation process to reawaken our taste buds. The dusting of shichimi togarashi (Japanese chili pepper mix) on top provided an intriguing hint of spiciness to a dish already perfect in its simplicity.



Our first cooked dish was Age-nasu. Pieces of Japanese eggplant had been skillfully scored and marinated in a blend of miso, sake, and other seasonings. The eggplant was then deep fried and drizzled with a sauce made from reducing the leftover marinade. Next to the Hakusai, the Age-nasu was Meridius Chick's favorite dish of the evening. Each morsel of eggplant had crispy, flakey skin which broke apart to release a deliciously light interior. The miso glaze added a complex sweetness that spread through the mouth with each bite, and enhanced the natural flavors of the eggplant.



To contrast with the Age-nasu, Chef John served a Tofu Salad consisting of pan-seared fingers of tofu, blanched green beans, and thinly sliced cucumber tossed in one of his signature dressings. The firm texture of the tofu played well with the cool crunch of the celery and sweet meatiness of the green beans. Toasted sesame seeds brought a rich nuttiness to the party. I'm definitely ordering this dish again.



Chef John's knockout punch for the evening, as far as I was concerned, was his Sweet and Sour Agedashi Tofu. Classic Agedashi Tofu consists of cubes of battered and deep fried tofu served in a seasoning made from bonito broth and soy sauce. Since bonito is dried skipjack tuna, Chef John made the dish vegetarian by replacing the standard broth with a sweet and sour sauce containing onions, pineapple, and bell peppers.

It was marvelous. The fried tofu had a delicate, ricotta-like interior that was a perfect match for the crunchy exterior. The gentle sweet and sour sauce was enhanced by the natural sweetness and sourness of the vegetables. This style of sweet and sour sauce is a Japanese adaptation of a traditional Chinese preparation. By fusing it with a classic Japanese dish, Chef John created something remarkable.



The next dish was somewhat controversial. The Tofu Lettuce Wraps consisted of a strip of deep fried tofu, Japanese pickles, and sushi rice drizzled with a creamy sauce and rolled up in lettuce leaves. I enjoyed my wrap very much, finding the lettuce leaves refreshing, and loving the richness the sauce and tofu imparted on the rice. Meridius Chick felt the wraps were too heavy, with both the fried tofu and creamy dressing. She also didn't think there was enough contrast between textures in the filling. This one might be a matter a personal preference.



Our rice course was something for the truly adventurous. Knowing how fond I am of natto (fermented soybeans), and after hearing that Meridius Chick was willing to try it, Chef John prepared bowls of Natto-don for the two of us. On top of a bed of rice, he laid seasoned natto, okra, grated yamaimo (mountain yam), the yolk of a quail egg, minced shiso (beefsteak tomato leaf), and shredded nori (algae sheets). It was a homey bowl of mucilaginous delight. The earthy beat of the natto, the smooth richness of the quail egg, throbbing bass line from the yamaimo, the tinkling chimes from the shiso, and the percussive explosions from the okra played against my tongue with each gooey mouthful. Meridius Chick did me proud by eating most of her bowl and liking it, although the quail egg just wasn't her cup of tea.



To finish us off, I asked for a pair of fried ice creams. The first was a Deep Fried Green Tea Ice Cream. As always, the mix between the hot, crunchy exterior and frosty, oozing interior were delightful. The grassy hints of green tea in the ice cream really showed through.



The second was a Deep Fried Red Bean Ice Cream. The sweetened azuki beans didn't shine through as much as the green tea, but Meridius Chick really liked this one. A sweet end to a sweet evening.



Congratulations on graduating from UC Irvine, Meridius Chick! I love ya, girl. I know you'll do us all proud in the Marines. Stay safe and Semper Fi!


Frenzy Sushi (Vegetarian Omakase) - If you're a vegetarian who likes to eat sushi, or have sushi-loving vegetarian friends, Frenzy will take good care of you. Just let the chefs know what your dining preferences are or call ahead and ask Chef John for the vegetarian omakase.

Since Chef John and I are friends, it would be improper for me to rate Frenzy using my standard scale, as I'm now a biased party. As such, I'll reiterate the overall score of A+ from my original review. Please don't take my word for it. Hop on in and see for yourselves.


Overall: A+


Frenzy Sushi
369 E 17th St, #17
Costa Mesa, CA 92627
1-949-646-1333
http://www.frenzysushi.com


To read my original, meat-loaded review of Frenzy Sushi, click here.

Sapporo-ya (Bachelor Party Series Part 3) - San Francisco, CA [Eating]

(Pictures taken with my Canon PowerShot SD800is.

I have some pretty big Q2 deadlines scattered between now and the end of the month, not to mention tasks for my wedding at the beginning of July. So, while I'll try to do a post every day or two until my Bachelor Party Series is done, please bear with me if I miss a posting date.

Click here to read my entire Bachelor Party Series.)

As adolescents growing up in Silicon Valley, journeying to San Francisco was a rite of passage for my friends and I. Although it wasn't far away, the pilgrimage up Highway 101 held an alluring excitement for our teenage selves. We saw the whole thing as a grand adventure. Pile too many people together in a car, often my beat up 1983 Nissan Sentra Datsun, make the trek northward, poke around the tchotchke and weapon shops in Chinatown, gorge on sundaes at Ghirardelli Square, get lunch and snacks in Japantown, and arrive back in suburbia before nightfall with our parents none the wiser.


(Rallying the troops.)

One of our regular stops in Japantown was Sapporo-ya, which purportedly specialized in Sapporo-style ramen. To our untrained palates, each steaming bowl of noodles and broth was an exotic gastronomic experience epitomizing the new frontiers we'd explored with our trailblazing spirits. Every slurp tasted of freedom. Even now, over a decade later, I get a thrill just walking through the doors.


(Ninjafuzz, Mr. Big, and The Oni)

Therefore, when Waldensian told me to pick a place in Japantown as the starting point for our San Francisco restaurant crawl, it wasn't hard for me to decide on Sapporo-ya. Here I was, back in our old stomping grounds with my high school and college pals. Just sitting in the ramen shop with them was enough to suffuse me with the same nervous anticipation I'd felt as a young lad who knew his parents would whip him within an inch of his life if they found out he'd driven to the city. I wasn't there for Sapporo-ya's ramen, I was there for the unique flavor of rebellious youth, an emotion I'd forgotten and would need if I was to make it through whatever bachelor party ordeals my friends had planned.



Sapporo-ya's claim to fame is its fresh, handmade, Japanese take on Chinese-style pulled noodles. As many ramen shops do, they advertise the authenticity of their product with a display in the front window. I've never really tasted a difference between their noodles and store bought, non-instant ramen. I've also never seen the machine in use. Some posters on Yelp have even suggested that the machine is just a display to fool tourists. While that may be the case, I've always given Sapporo-ya the benefit of the doubt. The machine really does look like it's put to regular use. There's even flour in the cracks between the floor and walls.


(A busy restaurant needs fast cooks.)

Service is fast and efficient, but definitely not friendly. I've been here lots of times, and there's always something about the wait staff that leaves me feeling cold. If you're not Japanese, even if you speak the language, you should look elsewhere for that highly vaunted Japanese sense of courtesy. They're not rude, but there's a definite brusqueness about them.


(Miso Ramen)

The ramen at Sapporo-ya is served in a clear Shoyu (Soy Sauce) and meat broth. The addition of different toppings and ingredients, such as kimchi or miso paste, provides a number of different flavor combinations to choose from. The soup usually benefits from both additional toppings and a little extra chili oil for kick. Plain, the broth is gentle with a mild sweetness, but lacking the strength to adequately season the noodles.


(Natto Ramen, my personal preference.)

In any bowl of ramen, the noodles should be the star attraction. Sapporo-ya's noodles are thick and plentiful, but too soft. They lack the slight chew and resiliency that make this ubiquitous Japanese dish so satisfying. While ramen with softer noodles is an authentic preparation, it leaves me longing for something I can really sink my teeth into.


(Chicken Katsu Curry. The rice was hard, the katsu breading was thin and soggy, and the curry was bland.)

For diners who don't want ramen, Sapporo-ya offers several alternative dishes, including Japanese curry, Okonomiyaki (Savory Pancake), and Yakisoba (Stir-fried Buckwheat Noodles). However, be forewarned. Ordering non-ramen dishes at a ramen shop is like ordering steak in a seafood restaurant. If you're lucky, the food will be decent at best. Suffice to say, few people tend to be that lucky.


Sapporo-ya - We really only went for the memories. If you're in Japantown for a visit, it's not a bad place to catch a quick bite, although expect tourist prices. Sadly, the quality fairly indicative of the ramen restaurants available up in NorCal.


Bill (Items pictured.)

Miso Ramen - 9.20
Natto Ramen - 12.00
Chicken Katsu Curry ~ 9.00


Flavor: C
Ambiance: C+
Service: C+
ROI: C-

Overall: C


Sapporo-ya
1581 Webster St., # 202
San Francisco, CA 94115
1-415-563-7400

Eating Miyajima (Terragnome guest blog) - Hatsukaichi, Hiroshima Prefecture, Japan [Crazies]

(Today's article is courtesy of my little brother, Terragnome, who's currently in Kyoto, Japan as part of an Education Abroad program with Stanford University. The plain text and pictures are Terragnome's. Additional text in italics is mine. Enjoy!)


(Donburi Set Meal - My guess is Katsu-don, which is a breaded pork cutlet fried with egg and served over rice with a sweet sauce poured on top. The yellow shreds in the side dish are Takuan, a pickle make from daikon radishes. The smaller bowl contains a simple broth with Wakame seaweed.)

Hi guh (lit. older brother),

Here are some of the food pics as promised. These were all taken at Miyajima, which is a small island off the coast of Hiroshima. It's famous for the quasi-tame deer that wander all over the city, and for this huge Tori-gate from the Itsukushima Shrine that's built in the ocean. You can walk up to it at low tide in the mornings and in the evenings to touch it, walk through it, or just take a closer look.



Food wise, the Miyajima/Hiroshima area is famous for its Kaki (oysters, but you probably already knew that), Okonomiyaki (Japanese savory pancake), and Anago (saltwater eel, but you also probably already knew that).


(Classic Una-don or eel bowl using anago. The anago has been broiled and lightly brushed with a sweet glaze. Fresh and saltwater eels are the only sushi "fish" that must be cooked before being eaten, as their blood is poisonous unless cooked. In the traditional British ballad of Lord Randall, the young lord is poisoned after eating an eel dish that was most likely underdone.)

You'll notice that there's a lot of the anago in the pictures I took.


(Okonomiyaki - Japanese savory pancake. The dark sauce is a fermented product with sweet and sour overtones, with a flavor reminiscent of Worcestershire sauce, which is another fermented product.)

I've most been eating Kansai okonomiyaki, which has an egg batter with the ingredients suspended inside, but the Hiroshima style is distinct in that it is essentially yakisoba or udon with the batter in two disks surrounding it.



There's a pleasant crisping sensation that you don't find in the Kansai version, although the Kansai one has a more even distribution of taste.


(Shaved ice. No idea what it's flavored with.)

(Edit from Terragnome 070606 - 7:33AM) The shaved ice in the last photo batch was naccha flavored ice with azuki and condensed milk on top. Ice is shaved "Snowflake style" like the Taiwanese style where it feels like you’re eating a cloud.

I've started being more proactive with my food documentation, so I'll send you another email when I've reached critical flavor mass.


(Cold soup used to refresh the palate.)

The beautiful thing about Japan is that there's delicious food in pretty every bakery, department store, and konbini (convenience stores), although I'd kill a man to get some little dragon buns. I couldn't bring myself to fork out 1000 yen (~9 bucks) for 12 last time I saw them at the department store, but one of these days I might just have to give in...



(What follows are additional pictures from the kaiseki meals Terragnome enjoyed.)


(Appetizer course of lightly boiled soybeans, broiled shrimp, and broiled conch.)


(Sashimi course. From the color of the fish, I would guess Hirame or halibut.)


(Steamed course of Tamago-dofu, a steamed and chilled egg custard flavored with dashi broth made from dried skipjack tuna and kelp, and yuzu, a citrus fruit native to Japan.)


(Grilled course. I'm going to guess Hamachi Kama, grilled yellowtail tuna cheeks. But, I honestly have no idea.)


(Fried course. Tempura. I probably don't need to explain that.)


(Simmered course, Kamisuki Nabe or Paper Pot Soup. This one seems to contain a lot of anago.)


(The really cool thing about Kamisuki Nabe is that the pot really is made out of paper. The liquid in the paper actually serves to insulate it, keeping the paper from reaching its burning point.)


(To thicken the soup, you're given a beaten egg mixture to pour into it. The low heat from the flame below gently cooks the egg, giving the soup a custard-like consistency.)



(To read more about the adventures of my brother, Terragnome, and his friends, Wakywebsurfer and Bsrancho, in Japan, visit the Linshesa's Travels blog.)

Smile Sushi - San Jose, CA [Eating]

I float like a butterfly, sting like a bee,
Keys to the ignition are like gloves to Ali.
To and fro, water in the sea,
The sunrise is my peace.
[Repeat]

I ride the distance, nature in me,
Nirvana coming through with my delivery.
To and fro, mountains and sea,
The twilight sets me free.
[Repeat]

- "Gloves 2 Ali" by Ghost Style

(Dawn on I-5.)

The drive from Southern California to Northern California usually takes six hefty hours. Sometimes I can make the trip just in a little over five hours if I do my Initial D impersonation, book it, and don't run afoul of traffic. On bad days, I can hit snags going through Los Angeles, snow and/or ice crossing the Grapevine, construction on the I-5 straightaway, and the occasional forest fire on CA-152. It's worth it, though, to see my family and friends. I have deep roots in Northern California. I like getting back to them whenever I can.

My friends all know about my food blogging proclivities. It's fairly hard to keep secret when I insist on pulling out my camera during every meal. I may be able to ninja pictures without the disturbing the wait staff, but my friends tend to notice when I stop them from eating to get a shot of their food. I get some ribbing for it, but I also get recommendations to favorite local spots.


(Mah posse.)

Late one chilly night, Ninjafuzz decided to introduce me to Smile Sushi, his sushi bar of choice, just a few blocks away from his apartment in downtown San Jose. He, Waldensian, VII XLII, K Love, a friend of theirs who I'll call "Token Girl", and I trudged though the empty, frigid streets towards the one beacon of light still shining in the darkness.


(Not a creature was stirring...)

The restaurant was as empty as the street when we arrived. We were greeted by a soft-spoken, Korean gentleman who Ninjafuzz informed me was the itamae (skilled sushi chef). The chef seated us at some tables, since our group of six was much too large for the restaurant's small sushi bar. He then proceeded to apologize for the lack of a wait staff, saying that his waitress had called in sick. It was just him manning the entire shop; front, bar, and kitchen. Even with Smile Sushi's limited seating, I imagine he would have had substantial difficulty if there had been more diners. As it was, the service was excellent throughout our meal, and continued to be excellent even after the arrival of another party.

A lot of dishes were ordered and shared, so I'll just be covering the ones that I tasted. I've tried to provide prices for these dishes at the end of this review. However, since Ninjafuzz ninja-ed the check, I don't have all of the prices and there won't be a total.

(When I say "ninja-ed", I mean he used his secret ninja arts on us and bogarted the bill. Ninjafuzz is actually a student and practitioner of modern ninjutsu. He jokes that as a student of the samurai battle technique of iaijutsu, I'm honor-bound to challenge him to a duel. I've so far refused. I know that conniving genius well. He'd probably slip powdered Altoids into my food and kick my ass while I was choking on the curiously strong, minty goodness. Suffice to say, I was on my guard during the entire dinner.)


(Chemical warfare.)

A master strategist, Ninjafuzz began by ordering us a bottle of nigori sake and plying me with drink. Opalescently sweet, it flowed down my throat, exploding in my head and stomach with saccharine warmth. Once I started, I just couldn't stop. I'm sure he was counting on this.


(Would you trust this man?)

Next up were six delectable filets of Maguro (Bluefin Tuna) sashimi, which Ninjafuzz passed around. Given his crafty expression, I was leery of his intentions. How do you trust a man with no eyes? Unfortunately, I was unable to resist the siren call of the "chicken of the sea".


(All dressed up.)

Resting on a bed of thinly sliced onions, drizzled with po