The restaurant was dim, lit by neon lights and a painfully bright plasma TV. Stands of lacquered bamboo thrust up from the tiled floor in a garish mockery of once-vibrant life. A wall of glass stood between us and the dining area as water streamed down its surface. Tendrils of manufactured mist swirled around our feet from a pool at the base. I'd only seen the foyer, but I knew we were in trouble.
(Dragonblink sipping soup.)
Recommended for its bentos by foodie friends Elven Princess and Linglei, Kaya Sushi is the latest addition to the sushi-glutted area around LAX. The opening of the El Segundo branch was breathlessly anticipated by area foodies, who were buzzing about it weeks in advance due to the reputation of the original Marina Del Ray location.
Like many of its highly profitable, fish-slinging brethren, Kaya seems to specialize in style rather than substance. Every one if its dishes are a work of art, painstakingly sculpted and flawless in presentation. However, showmanship aside, the rest of the restaurant reminds me of a Faberge egg; Gorgeous, yet hollow.
The Kaya Sashimi Special is the perfect example of the restaurant’s overwhelming focus on appearance. The dish is a sampler of four different types of fish sliced into paper-thin wafers and arranged in jeweled folds. While the plating is attractive, the flavors fall short.
Each selection wallows in a pool of ponzu sauce, which thoroughly saturates the meat and overwhelms more subtle characteristics. As a result, everything tastes like ponzu. Every bit of additional seasoning or garnish. Everything.
Adding insult to injury, the portion sizes are miniscule. Normally, sashimi is cut thicker than fish used for nigiri (fingers of rice topped with raw fish). With the Kaya Sashimi Special, the fish is sliced wafer thin, almost like a carpaccio. Five pieces of fish in the Kaya Sashimi Special have roughly the volume of two to three regular pieces of sashimi. Add a flavor eradicating ponzu marinade and a $38 price tag, and you've got all the ingredients for a major disappointment.
The a la carte sushi items are a somewhat better value. Visually stunning, the flavor and freshness, are about average. However, as is the case with many of the trendier sushi bars in LA, the prices can still be shocking. Style comes with a hefty premium at Kaya.
The rolls are similarly expensive, although they tend to taste more intense than the sashimi or nigiri. Each roll tends to average about 4-6 pieces, so expect to need at least two rolls per person. Given the choice, I'd go with rolls over any of the other sushi selections at Kaya.
The cost-conscious diner is better off ordering the Hew Dup Bop, the Korean version of a chirashi bowl. Kaya takes a modest patty of sushi rice, covers it with a generous mound of salad and Korean pickles, adds hefty chunks of raw fish, and tops the dish with cod roe and gold leaf. The mild seasoning can be kicked up using the large dollop of gochujang (Korean fermented chili paste) provided on the side.
The lunch boxes are also a better value than the sushi. While a bit pricey, they're filling and offer a reasonable variety of dishes. Each set comes with miso soup, salad, rice, tempura, pickles, and a few pieces of sushi and California roll. The diner gets to pick her choice of grilled meat. As far as lunch options at Kaya go, their bentos are the best value.
Kaya Sushi - The food is pretty and the restaurant is stylish. However, appearance isn't enough to compensate for lackluster service and egregiously high prices. The quality of the food, while decent, doesn't justify the cost.
Bill:
Kaya Sashimi Special - 38.00
Tobiko (black) - 6
Smelt Egg w/Quail Egg - 6
Sea Urchin - 9
Salmon Roe - 8
Tobiko (Red) - 6
Spider Roll - 14.00
Hew Dup Bop - 18.00
Lunch Box - 13.00
Flavor: C+
Ambience: A
Service: C
ROI: D
Overall: C+
Kaya Sushi
2251 E. Maple Ave.
El Segundo, CA 90245
1-310-640-1025
Restaurant website
Other Locations:
13400 Washington Blvd.
Culver City, CA 90292
1-310-577-1143
Posts
9 comments:
Wow, judging by the prices I realize I really need to start cherishing my affordable Hew Dup Bop spots! Those sashimi sure are drowning in ponzu..
Looks like they corner the market withvregards to ponzu usage. And just kochujang...not cho kochujang for Hwe Dup Bop? Egads....
I work within walking distance of that place (big black building off Imperial Hwy), and never quite got around to eating there. Thanks for saving me the trip. :-)
I like your Faberge Egg analogy. And that dollop of wasabi looks phallic.
I could have saved you guys the trip and have you turn around, seeing the Korean sign on the front. I have yet to have decent high quality sushi Korean owned, even though I am Korean myself. Aestetics only goes so far. This post further solidifies my unfortunate position towards Korean operated sushi establishments.
Hew Dup Bap ALWAYS used gochujang. Its a Korean dish. I view Hew Dup Bap a variation of Bibimbap.. only you use less variety of veggies, and usage of raw fish (sashimi). If you check their website and click on the bi bim bap under Edible art, the Hew Dup Bap is listed under there.. go figure.
Polar,
Agree with your assessment, unfortunate though it is, on K-owned sushi establishments. My personal take is that there's just no excuse for that, given the sheer number of K-owned sushi restaurants: I mean, there are some excellent non-Japanese owned sushi restaurants (The Hump comes immediately to mind) so it's not impossible to do right.
That sashimi special also looked like it was overloaded with the thinly sliced onions. The bento boxes do look good!
I agree, the food looks pretty but doesn't seem like all will be good! The sashimi is so thin- isn't that even harder than cutting it into thicker slices?
So interesting why there are so many restaurants with the same name, but yet they are completely different. In my area, we also have a Kaya place, but it serves Chinese and Japanese food and isn't as showy as this place.
Dennis,
I'm still not used to LA sushi prices. Thus far, only Silicon Valley sushi prices top them.
Kirk,
Straight gochujang, as far as I could tell...
Julian,
Dude, we should totally get lunch sometime. I'm right around the corner.
Elmo,
It's a metaphor that occurs a lot to me when dining in LA. The Faberge egg that it, not the phallic wasabi.
Polar,
I try to keep an open mind. One of my favorite sushi bars in OC has Korean chefs and owners, and is pretty affordable.
Ben,
All I could taste was ponzu and onions. It make me sad.
EatTravelEat,
Kaya seems to be a pretty popular name for Korean eateries. I've been to a Kaya Soft Tofu, as well as a sit down BBQ place.
- CP
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